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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.59060°N / 104.715°W |
Route Type:
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Classic Crack-Aid & Free |
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Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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A3+, 5.8 |
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Approach
Take the Standard "Shoulder Approach" toward the start of the Durrance Route. Stop, midway across the Sout West Face !! This route is just to the left of Centennial and 2 cracks to the right of Runner's World which is marked by the ONLY prominent ledge on the South West Face.(The ledge is about 1/3 of the way up). Scramble up to ledges by a small clump of low trees, that provide an excellent belay and serve as the start for both Stiletto Heels and Centennial.
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Route Description
This route was first climbed on Nov 16, 2001, by Frank Sanders and Todd Zorn. It features a long line of very thin aiding AND very secure, Big-Bolt Belays.
Pitch 1 (A3+, 165 ft.). Start one crack left of Centennial and aid upwards. The pitch requires a handful of RURPs and 30 Knife Blades (most of which get tied-off). When its possible, Tension Traverse right to the hanging, 3 Big-Bolt Belay of Centennial. THIS IS TRULY ONE EXCELLENT PITCH!!!!
Pitch 2 (A2, 160 ft.). From the Centennial Belay, swing back left to the Stiletto Crack and aid upwards. The crack widens and the placements become easier, still the rock is steep and the view is just Fine!! When possible climb or Tension Traverse left to the 2 Big-Bolt Anchors of the South West Face Rappel Route, and its associated small ledge.
Pitch 3 (5.8 or A2 or both, 180 ft.) From here the route joins Centennial for yet another "Top-of Devils-Tower-Chimney / Wide-Crack". However you do it, you will need numerous, numerous big pieces.....and some clever problem-solving. This pitch is relatively "choss-free", as the bulk of the loose stuff was tossed or trundled when the South West Rappels were established.
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Essential Gear
Standard Aid Rack; be sure to include RURPs and at least 30 Knife Blades (and tie-offs) for the 1st pitch, and all of the wide stuff that you have for the final pitch !!!!!
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.