Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.59060°N / 104.715°W |
Route Type:
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Rock-Classic Crack |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.10c |
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Approach
Take the South Face Approach.Walk to the right, traversing on the Ramp. The route lies on the exact south east corner.
Route Description
This route was a traditional aid climb ( A1) on the Tower for decades. There was a time when the Park Service REQUIRED that climbers must do this route, to demonstrate their aiding ability, before they would be allowed to attempt any other Tower aid line. In 1974, this route was first free climbed by Coloradans Scott Woodruff and Jeff Overton. They were years ahead of their time. It was a truly futuristic ascent. In 1977, the route was free-soloed by Henry Barber, who later admitted that he'd "learned a lesson about free-soloing at Devils Tower". All previous and subsequent parties have utilized a rope and gear. It can be a very well protected route and still be a test piece!!
Pitch1.( 70 ft., 5.5) Climb the chimney and belay on the large, broken-off column top on the left from a 2 Big Bolt anchor.
Pitch2. (160 ft., 5.10c) Using fingerlocks and faceholds, climb this old aid crack to the belay atop the column with a 2 Big Bolt anchor. Most of the climbing is 5.9. The crux, a little higher than midpoint , is fingertip jams and lieback which can be protected with over head gear. This is a wonderfully protected route which will accept wired stoppers and small cams every 2 to 3 feet.
Finish. Scramble to the Meadows and take the Standard Third Class Thrash to the summit.
Essential Gear
Many, many,many wired stoppers sizes #3 to #9 as well as TCU's and other cams up to full finger size. This is an old aid route, which will accept gear as fast as you can put it in. The pitch is quite long, so be sure to bring 'nuff stuff.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.