Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.59060°N / 104.715°W |
Route Type:
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Rock-Face Climb |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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5.10a/b |
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Approach
This climb takes the face on the outside of the Weissner column. Get there by traversing over the SouthWest Shoulder to the base of Durrance Route, then traversing some more to the base of the Weissner Column or climb up the last rappel section of the Standard Meadows Rappel. Belay in the box on the left side of the Weissner Column.
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Route Description
This fanciful route was first climbed in the summer of 1993 by Frank Sanders, Liana Kirk and Lynn Lee. It was inspired by Andy Petefish's visionary, bolted route, on the West Face, MYSTERY EXPRESS. The entire route is well protected by 13, well placed bolts.
Pitch 1. (130ft, 5.10a/b) Climb out of the box and onto the face. Work upwards on small ledges and thin edges. You will be pleased to find that every hard move is afforded overhead protection by a well placed bolt. At the top of the column a 3 bolt chained anchor awaits for you. Clip it and then look down the Weissner offwidth crack that he did with only a single point of protection, back in 1937!!
Pitch 2. (140ft, 5.6) Continue up wide cracks to the Meadows.
Finish.-Take the Standard 3rd Class Thrash to the Summit, sign the summit log and reflect on the nature of your experience ...and Fritz's!!
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Essential Gear
13 quickdraws for the bolts. Standard rack for the 2nd pitch.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.