Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.59060°N / 104.715°W |
Route Type:
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Rock-Classic Face |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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5.11b |
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Approach
Traverse across the South Face Ramp to the right (east) and go around the corner to the East Ledges. The route is on the face, just left of Soler Route. The bolts mark the way.
Route Description
This is a stellar face climb established by Dennis Horning, in his own good time. A 3-Star Route with Great Bolts in all the Right Places.
Pitch 1. (110 ft., 5.11b). Follow the bolts. Once you clip the first one, you can about fall all that you want and no harm will come to you, just don't blow a clip. The crux is about 50 ft up. For that menacing roof that looms overhead you will have overhead protection when you pull it. This all leads you to a short traverse left to a hanging belay at a 2 Big Bolt, chained anchor.
Pitch2. (110ft., 5.10a) Some care NEEDS to be taken with this pitch. Although it is much less difficult than the first, it is more run out and some of the flakes "bend" when you pull on them. Your efforts will hopefully take you up to the 2 Big Bolt chained anchor atop Hollywood & Vine.
Finish. Scramble to the Meadows and take the Standard Third Class Thrash to the Summit.
Essential Gear
All that you need is quick draws. Take a couple extra in case you fumble on the goal line....The first pitch is great fun; a puzzle solving thing !!
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
dakotakid - Apr 22, 2001 1:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe details of one Dirty Dingus Mcgee being responsible for this route is only partially correct. Credit is due where credit is deserved. Dennis Horning was in fact involved. He helped Eric Rhicard to bolt the route as per local ethics. The next day I showed up, then Eric went on to lead both pitches with Dennis Horning and Brent Kertzman following.