MR. CLEAN

Approach

Take the Standard West Face Approach, through the talus field. Mr. Clean is the crack 4 to the left of Tulgey Wood, or 1 to the left of Misty Morning Melody, or 2 to the right of The Howling. Approach with respect and perhaps a little awe. This was the first 5.11 on the Tower. Approach with well deserved, anxious anticipation, for in this awesome corner is one fine dose of both difficult enduro jamming and unending, excellent protection.

Route Description

This route was first free climbed by Henry Barber and Chip Lee in August of 1977. Although he was blessed with the eye for a fine line, he did not have the benefit of either "sticky" rubber or camming devices. Mr. Barber and Mr. Lee climbed with EB shoes and stoppers&hexes. Mr. Clean will forever be a well protected testpiece and a tribute to "Hot Henry" and his immpeccable style.

Pitch 1. (40 ft. 5.7) Climb the wide crack to the hanging belay at a secure bolt anchor, 10 ft below a small roof.

Pitch 2. (160ft, 5.11a) Continue up the crack. Turning the small roof is the technical crux of the pitch and is well protected with small stoppers (#3-#5) and the smallest TCU's. The amazing crack above is finger to hand size and offers secure jams, excellent protection and only one true rest, which is a small ledge off to the right, about halfway up. The hanging belay is from a secure, chained, 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 3. (150 ft.,5.10a) Continue up the crack on hand jams ,similar to the 2nd pitch.There is a short but tricky off-width section, up high, so be sure to have a larger piece for protection. Your efforts will get you to the spacious West Face Ledge. This pitch has many more face holds than the second pitch. Tie in to the Big Bolt anchor and take a look around. Pretty Amazing- eh??

Pitch 4.& 5. Move over to the right end of the West Face Ledges and finish the climb using the wide crack that is the last 2 pitches of the McCarthy West Face. (100ft., 5.8) and (65 ft., 5.5)

Essential Gear

The 2nd pitch is the crux of the route. My personal rack for that pitch is:
small wired stoppers for the roof,
6-#1 Friends
6-#1.5 Friends
6-#2 Friends
4-#2.5 Friends
You can take more if you like, they will all go in!!

The 3rd pitch is similar in size to the 2nd pitch, with an off-width finish. It is also a long pitch. Be sure to take enough stuff!!!

The wide crack to the summit is really quite "friendly". You should have runners to tie off chockstones and a couple #4 Friends...

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.