Man Without a Planet

Approach

Take the Standard West Face Approach up through the Talus, turn left and walk along the broad shoulder that runs underneath the Wast Face. Go past the obvious and fluted NAM column and walk just a little further. The route can be identified as 2 cracks right of the conspicuous DELI EXPRESS right facing corner and / or identified as the first crack left of the all too obvious, ill-planned and poorly executed line of bolts that passes as the LOSS OF ENTHUSIASM route.

Route Description

The route was first free climbed in September of 1991 by a goofy group including Brent Kertzman, Steve Babbits, Sarah Musel and Dennis Horning. Surely the group had hopes of free climbing higher than they did, but it just doesn't work out that way ; the face holds quit and the crack closes down. It is however a pleasant pitch and a Happy relief from jamming yet anothe crack. The climb depends mainly on face climbing and a bit of stemming, with an intermittant crack , good enough for protection, and a couple bolts high up when the crack shuts down !!!!

Pitch 1. (130 ft. 5.10a) While you start up the crack proper, in a short time you find it much more appropriate to be climbing on the face left of the crack. As you continue up, at about mid-point, the line of holds leads you back, now to the right of the original crack. As Trad protection options run out, a couple of bolts pleasantly appear. It is, perhaps, this last 20 ft., with fine bolt protection , that is considered to be the Crux. Slightly above you will find a Nice 2-Big Bolt anchor for your hanging belay !!!!

If this route feels good you should move your ropes over a few feet and Lead the excellent 1st pitch of DELI EXPRESS which goes at 5.10a as well!!!!!!

Essential Gear

Standard Rack, with a #3 Friend, a couple larger RP's and quickdraws for the bolts of course

Miscellaneous Info

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