Butterfingers

Approach

Approach over the South West Shoulder. This route is located 4 cracks right of Direct Southwest and 1 crack left of Kirk-Sanders West Face Classic. Scramble as high as you can to set a belay.

Route Description

This route was first climbed by Steve Gardiner and Mark Brackin in the heat of July 15, 1979. It was at a time when establishing a new route on the Tower, still meant something.This route represents a " Passing of The Torch". A fine aid line, at that time, and a fine line even now.

Pitch 1. (C2+, 100ft.) Aid the thin corner on small stoppers and RP's to a hanging belay. Don't go too far, as a secure belay is hard to establish up higher.

Pitch 2. (C2+,165 ft.) Continue aiding as the crack widens. It is best to set the belay as high as possible. Turn the roofs on their right. Above is a fine ledge and a great spot for an anchor.

Pitch 3. (5.8, 165 ft.) Climb this Clasic "Top-of -Devils -Tower-Chimney" to its end at the summit. Take many large pieces, slings to tie off natural chock stones and perhaps a hammer to set several "fixed" pins.

Finish. Head out to the lecture circuit, slide show tour and book signings. You've done a Classic mixed route on the Bold Face of Devils Tower.

Essential Gear

Many large pieces for the exit chimney and many small nuts for the lower section. The route has not been tried " free", so a few pitons and a hammer in the bag might help you through the thin or flaring sections, and could assist you in setting the 1st belay.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.