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Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.37820°N / 9.95705°E |
Route Type:
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Skiing |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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BSA |
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Overview
The main summit and the Piz Zupò in the background.The skiroute from the Diavolezza cablecar station, follows more or less the summer normal route.
The route is passable for most of the year. In fact the height of the summit and its exposure to the north side, provides a snowcover, if not always perfect, but workable 8/10 months per year.
The cable car of Diavolezza remains perennially function, which allows the ease of approach.
During spring you can also climb up along the Morteratsch glacier or from refuge Boval.
The route does not present great difficulties. The glacier hosts several crevasses that must be carefully avoided.
For those who want to climb all three peaks of Palù, we recommend that leave the skis at the base of the east top, and continue with axe and crampons along the crest, which often has frames on both sides.
The east summit
Pano of Bernina group
Pano of Bernina groupThe route description
The route starts in descent. From the cablecar station (2973m) should ski down for at least 200 meters until reach the flat part of the glacier.Once mounted the skins, point directly to the snow saddle placed on the right side of the east top. First on flat and then ever more steeply. Along the climb, you encountered many crevasses and seracs, which should be avoided according to the situation and snow condition.
Anyway, try to follow a left-right semicircle direction bordering the west side of Piz Cambrena.
The slopes become increasingly steep until you reach the saddle bordering on the Italian side more or less at a height of 3750 meters.
Beware of the terminal crevasse!!! Here it is advisable to leave the skis. To continue to the top, you first need to climb a steep slope (45°/50°)that ends in a narrow ridge; then dropped a few meters, and continue on a sharp ridge leading to the main peak of 3905 meters.
It is possible ski down along the easy offpiste of the Morteratsch glacier until the rail station and, came back to the Diavolezza cablecar base station.
Red line is the ski route. Green line is the climb route.Links
Berghaus DiavolezzaMeteoswiss
Engadin-Diavolezza