Page Type: | Route |
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Lat/Lon: | 40.61940°N / 111.7874°W |
Route Type: | Sport, Trad - Single/Multi-Pitch |
Time Required: | Less than two hours |
Difficulty: | 5.4-5.13a |
Static Wall: After crossing the bridge, you can see a ridge rising above the trees across from a clearing. This is Reservoir Ridge. You can either approach this ridge and follow the cliff base to Static Wall, or pick your way across the clearing directly to its base.
Reservoir Alcove:
From here, walk across a bridge that crosses a stream. To access the Reservoir area, pick your way up some trails that take you to an old concrete barrier that extends out from the reservoir spillway. Follow this wall to the shady base of Reservoir Ridge. I'm calling the alcove to the right the Reservoir Alcove for lack of a known official name.
Another nice thing about climbing here is that if a route is taken, one needs only to walk a couple of minutes to look for free routes on the cliffs across the field to the west or south, such as Storm Mountain Island.
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Pitch #1: (5.4) Begin at the base of the ridge by a fallen log and climb straight up. There aren't really any places for pro here, but don't despair as there is an occasional bolt. Stay on the west end of the arete and soon some bolted chains are reached. If you have a 60m rope, you can probably clip it and keep climbing, making your belay at the end of Pitch #2.
Pitch #2: (5.4) Bolts become more sparse and you must rely more on pro that you place yourself. At one point a wall is reached. DO NOT traverse around the left side of the wall on an appealing looking ledge. Instead, climb up to the right of it and out onto the Reservoir Wall. Its easier than it looks and placements for pro can be found here. Traverse over and up on the face, and beyond a wide crack and a large flat ledge there are some chains. Climb just past these to another ledge on the arete and set up your belay here.
Pitch #3: (4th-low 5th) Climb up the remaining spine to the ridge's junction with a large wall. Its hard to set up a belay here - I used a combination of scrub and stones.
Descent: Apparently there is a class 3-4 descent to the west. Down-climb cracks and ramps with some exposure. DO NOT descend to the east.