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9435 Hits
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72.08% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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45.47140°N / 110.4656°W |
Route Type:
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Scramble |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Difficulty:
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Walk-Up |
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Approach
This Route takes about an hour and a half from Pine Creek Lake. Keep in mind that reaching the lake itself takes about two and a half hours. The climb from the trail head to the top takes around 5 hours at a good pace. The total elevation gain is around 5,000 feet (2,000 feet from the lake).
Route Description
The standard route leaves Pine Creek Lake to the west. This is crucial to stay west of the prominant ridge that originates directly south of Jewel Lake, the small pond below Pine Creek Lake. Follow the center of the cirque to the top of the ridge. It may be easier to angle to the east near the top of the ridge. Once on top of the ridge, follow it south-east. It is fairly easy walking until the top of the "y-couloir" is reached. At this point, there is a ledge, it's several feet high, and looks dangerous! Don't try to hop off of it, it could end up bad. So, at this point it is best to back track a short distance, and then drop off to the southern side of the ridge. Don't drop more than 50 feet, it isn't worth it. MOST IMPORTANTLY!!! If you come to a ledge that drops about 6 feet or so into the Y-couloir, WALK BACK ABOUT 40-50 FEET, then drop down. This is the only piece that could be reasonably dangerous, unless you drop slightly to the south under the cliffs.
Once around this section, follow the 'ridge.' The ridge almost seems to dissapear, it looks more like a big rocky field up to the dome-like summit.
Don't forget to watch the weather, storms come in fast from the south and east.
Essential Gear
Wear good boots, it's rough terrain. Support is essential, and waterproof boots are nice in the wet snow. (Take some low gaiters if you have them.)
In the spring, an ice axe may be helpful for the descent, although that takes the fun out of the awesome glissade down the 800+ feet of snowfields.
Be ready for any type of weather, it often snows in June and September, dress accordingly.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
montana boy - Feb 28, 2006 11:19 pm - Hasn't voted
axe for glissadeThis is in response to the comment regarding the "800+ foot glissade" listed on "Essential Gear" portion of this page. I don't want to sound like a know it all, but you really should glissade with an axe in hand, allowing you to regulate your speed, steer (sorta), and arrest if need be. That is my humble experience, and what I have been taught. Read "Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills".
jscottcc - Oct 30, 2016 6:42 pm - Hasn't voted
Backtracking?I hiked this route with a friend August 2016. The page mentions some backtracking where the main ridge intersects with the Y-Couloir in order to avoid going over the gnarly block of rock that splits the Y-Couloir. This didn't really make sense based on our experience. Based on my experience, a more clear explanation would be to, once you've obtained the northwest ridge, follow it until the Y-Couloir block. A clear climber's trail begins to descend south into a gully of loose rock, and becomes more vague as you get further down. Go no further than 40-50 yards, and make a sharp left turn up a different gully. Think of it as hugging the left side of the gully, going around the Y-Couloir block. Continue up this second gully to the top of the east side of the Y-Coulour. From there it is easy walking to the summit. "So, at this point it is best to back track a short distance, and then drop off to the southern side of the ridge." "MOST IMPORTANTLY!!! If you come to a ledge that drops about 6 feet or so into the Y-couloir, WALK BACK ABOUT 40-50 FEET, then drop down. This is the only piece that could be reasonably dangerous, unless you drop slightly to the south under the cliffs." Perhaps I'm misinterpreting, but neither of these directions made much sense or were all that helpful on our ascent. Perhaps the author interpreted the Y-Couloir as being a feature on both the north and south sides of the mountain, when in reality the "Y-Couloir" only refers to the feature on the peak's north side.