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3785 Hits
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77.48% Score
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8 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.61250°N / 8.41694°E |
Time Required:
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A long day |
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Difficulty:
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BSA |
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Grade:
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II |
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The route
The ski route to Galenstock is a very long and fine ascent that would be possibly divided in two days, sleepind at the Albertheim hutte SAC.
The itinerary start from the hamlet of Realp and early takes place following the paved road (possibly covered with snow) that leads to Furka pass.
Take for the first 500 meters your right side, and try to find the more logical development. Usually this part of the climb is well tracked out.
When the impressive Galenstock is clearly visible, turn right towards the Albertheim hutte or point directly toward the Tiefengletscher.
Glacier marked in its central part by numerous crevasses.
It is advisable to pass on the left side of the crevassed area where the slope increases significantly in steep.
When you reach the base of the east wall of the mountain crossing to the north direction (attention snowfalls), until you reach the base of steep slope that leads to the notch that takes to the north ridge.
Than leave the skis and continue on foot depending by the snow conditions.
When the notch is reached, follow the ridge pointing towards the summit.
This is the most tough part of ascent. The entire ridge is covered by large frames on the east side, pay attention!
At the end of it, follow the last 100 meters on not very solid rocks just until the summit (II° maximum).
In descent follow the same route.
There is also a second chance: From Realp carry on the road to the Furka pass untill the hamlet of Bielenstafel 2280m. Follow the signal that indicates the Sidelen hutte 2708m.
From here take the direction of the Bielenlucke that permits to reach the Tiefengletscher at its medium part. This route takes 1 hours mere than the other.
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