Intro
Punta Fanes Sud (2.980 mtrs) is a 2nd highest summit of
Fanes group, which is situated north of
Grande Lagazuoi and
Falzarego Pass. The summit can be reached by the remarkable Via Ferrata
Cesco Tomaselli over the SW face and first tower on the
Cresta di Fanes. This is a very good quality route, perfectly secured and technically hard in places.
Fanes group and Lagazuoi grande with Punta Fanes Sud in the center A part of Fanes group with Punta Fanes Sud summit on the right Approach
Punta Fanes Sud from Bivacco della Chiesa View of Punta Fanes Sud from south-east of Forcella Grande The approach to the route is from historical
Falzarego Pass by the cable car, which will take you to
Lagazuoi refuge. From there descend with route No. 20 to
Forcella Lagazuoi and continue along the west side of
Lagazuoi Grande range. Then take route No. 20b at the signposted junction which will lead you the bottom of the rock face. The route now ascends towards
Forcella Grande and levelled plateau with
Bivacco della Chiesa where ferrata starts.
Ferrata Tomaselli facts
Sketch of the Tomaselli route Maximum height: 2.980 mtrs
Total ascent: 500 mtrs
Total ferrata ascent: 300 mtrs
Total ferrata descent: 300 mtrs
Total descent: 1000 mtrs
Grade:
Italian grading: 5
French grading: D+
Fletcher/Smith grading: 5C
Ascent/descent time:
Cable car station (Lagazuoi refuge) - Bivacco della Chiesa: 1-1,5 hours
Bivacco della Chiesa - Punta Fanes Sud summit: 1,5-2 hours
Punta Fanes Sud summit - Forcela dei Quaire: 1 hour
Forcela dei Quaire - Falzarego Pass: 1,5-2 hours
Route Description
Climbers on famous traverse called 'the nose' at the start of ferrata Cesco Tomaselli Climbing ferrata Tomaselli Best way for this route is to make clockwise circuit from the
Bivacco della Chiesa and to end your day with a walk down to
Falzarego pass, or you can ascent back to
Lagazuoi refuge and use the cable car for return. The ferrata starts with famous traverse leftwards called 'the nose', which is immediately strenuous and exposed. It continues up over vertical exposed walls towards central section of the face. At this part you will see another route going left to Cima Scotoni with Alta Via Fanis route. We follow wire rope that goes in the right direction towards a terrace, which is a good place to take a break. From there you have to climb a series of steep walls until you reach the crest, called 'a cheval'. The final obstacle is very exposed, vertical slab which lead to the summit of
Punta Fanes Sud.
Descending route from the summit goes over the NE face and it is fixed with cables from the beginning. It is initially steep and well protected, but easier than the ascent at the grade of 3/3C/AD. On this route there are also some quite difficult passages, among which the hardest passage is a short squarecut chimney. Ferrata finishes when you reach the end of the cable at
Forcella dei Quaire. Now route continues down over the scree slopes towards
Forcella Grasser and further more to
Forcella Travenanzes (route No. 20b). From there you have to descend final part of the returning route No. 402 to
Falzarego pass.
Route photos
At the middle part of ferrata Tomaselli Traverse 'the nose' on ferrata Tomaselli Detail from ferrata Tomaselli Climbing final steep walls on ferrata Tomaselli Approaching a terrace... Detail from ferrata Tomaselli View down on ferrata Tomaselli Climbing ferrata Tomaselli Climbers on final vertical slab View towards Lagazuoi plateau Final vertical slab on ferrata Tomaselli Vertical orientation of ferrata Tomaselli Panorama views from ferrata Cesco Tomaselli
View towards Marmolada and Sella group from via ferrata Cesco Tomaselli during ascent on Punta Fanes Sud Lagazuoi Grande as seen from via ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud Marmolada from ferrata Tomaselli View from ferrata Tomaselli on Punta Fanes Sud towards Val Badia mountains. On the right you can see a part of Piz dles Conturines Sella group seen while climbing ferrata Tomasseli View towards the south Essential Gear
The via ferrata gear and good shoes.
Maps
TABACCO 03 - Cortina D'Ampezzo and Dolimiti Ampezzane - 1:25.000
Bibliography
Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites: Vol 1.
By John Smith and Graham Fletcher
Cicerone Press 2002
Revised & reprinted 2004
Velebit - Very difficult airy traverse called 'The Nose'
Weather conditions
Excellent weather forecast for Dolomiti area can be received from following site
www.arpa.veneto.it under section Dolomiti Meteo.