Super 8

Please take this review with a grain of salt, as I'm no expert climber. My first rappel was from Manure Pile Buttress at Yosemite, with a Swami belt(!) and a figure 8.



I suppose that as a dedicated rappel device, the figure 8 is better than, say, an ATC. But I like the ATC better for belays, and it's not bad in my experience for raps. People who belay with a GriGri need to carry another device for raps, so the figure 8 may be a good choice.



You have a higher probability of burning yourself with a figure 8 than with an ATC,I think.

Easy to use but does not handle two ropes as well as the ATC. Rappelling is no problem with the Super 8 but belays in odd stances are not as solid as with the ATC.

I love my Super 8 for rappels, but I don't often use it for belays. It's a bit bulky and heavy to take on long climbs. However, if I know I'm going to be doing a lot of rappels, this comes with me. The rope travel is much smoother than other BRD's providing a smooth rappel which stresses the anchor less. I feel that rapping from an ATC tends bite the rope more and I have to work harder to keep from jerking to a stop.



As a rappel device, this gets 5 stars.

As a belay device, only 3.

Great for raps. I never belay with it, I prefer the ATC. I do not find any difficulties with a doubel rope rap. Easy to use and set up, even with gloves on.

The basic 8. Works nicely and reliably as a rappel device, adequately for bellay. Looks cool and manly while hanging around with newbs.



The downside is that muddy or dirty rope cuts into the soft aluminum of the 8 pretty quickly. My 8 has some alarming notches from muddy rope raps in caves. Anodized aluminum is slightly harder and will resist errosion a little longer, at least until you've worn through the anodized outer surface.



There is also a finite chance of the rope riding up over the larger ring on rappel and fashioning into a lark's head knot. 8s with ears prevent this, but tend to be larger and heavier. I've never actually seen it happen.

This was the first rappel device that I ever owned. Probaly not a good choice then because of my lack of experience ,could of had me letting go or some dumb thing like that and totaly loosing it. I now use the Balck Diamond ATC for almost all occations ,but if I am in a real hurry nothing beats flying down the rope on a figure 8. I only use this on road side routs now, because of the weight. I am very weight concious so I usulay go for light compact stuff for multi -day routes. Over all I still think that this is a good pice of gear and does what it is supposed to do. I am giving it a vote of 4 stars because of the weight and the softness of the metle.