MX

Overview

MX is a 2 pitch andesite splitter in the middle (highest part) of the Bend wall at Tieton. This climb is known for its classic second pitch which features a sustained and relentless fingercrack of about 150 foot in length. This pitch is probably the best crack at The Bend and one of the finest of its grade in the state of Washington.

Getting There

Drive to 1.4 miles past the junction. Look for the fourth pullout with a metal shack next to the parking lot. Walk west along along the trail then cross the footbridge. Turn east and hike the trail to the base of the wall. Turn right and go uphill until just below three long splitter cracks on the upper tier. MX is the center crack, an offwidth is to the left. This is in the center (highest part) of the wall.

Route Description

Pitch #1 - 5.5 - Look for the only clean column below MX and jamb the low angle hand and finger crack to reach the ledge above. Scramble to the base of the upper crack and belay here. 60 feet

Pitch #2 - 5.10A - The start of the crack is about 8 feet of seam that you avoid by using the handcrack on the right. Traverse back over to MX when it opens up to good fingers. Jamb this long sustained fingercrack all the way to the top of the wall. No reaching over and using the crack to either side. The crack finally eases up in the last 10 feet. 150 feet

Down - Rap the route with 2 60 meter ropes. You will have to scramble down the 4th class start to Ed's Jamb if you do this. It is over 200 feet to the ground from the top. Another option is to walk over and rap Pure Joy with a single 60 meter (much easier).

Essential Gear

Cams from micro to 2.5"
Triples .5 to 1.5"
1 each nuts, extra in the larger sizes useful
60 meter rope

External Links

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Images

View MX Image Gallery - 4 Images