Martinswand

Approach

You can reach the cliff by the GR5; from the basis of Schlucht (great possibility of carpark) then one hour of walk, or since the Trois Fours (farm inn and refuge CAF, few places), then 15 minutes by the path (southern direction). You can also park at the foot of Hohneck (restaurant) and join the collar of Falimont by a path which leaves on the left GR5 (N) until the top of Falimont. There, a panel announces the presence of a school of climbing. You can always locate with the characteristic rattling of the eight…

Overview

The Martinswand is one of the most beautiful and most climbed granitic cliffs of the Vosges, the most known also.

Matinswand is a cliff which is in the Vosges of the south, between Colmar and Gerardmer, It is located below the large crest, at the Alsacien side , at 1200m of altitude. More precisely, it is located approximately at 1km in the north of the Hohneck, 2 km in the south of the collar of Schlucht and 100m downwards of Falimont.

Climate: Martinswand is located at 1200m altitude, so the climate is alpine and relatively continental; the winters are cold, often very snow-covered, the summers are hot and stormy. The south-eastern orientation of the cliff allows after midday the shade of the sun and the shelters of the wind. You can climb from May to October. I advice against climbing in winter (go skiing !).

Ecology: Martinswand is downwards thatches (or what remains of them) which constitute a very fragile biotope: a few centimetres of humus on the granite. This ground is strongly exposed to gullying, Don’t leave the traced paths, those are already sufficiently broad. Moreover, a natural reserve begins with the collar from Falimont and goes down to the small valley from Frankenthal. It is a splendid place and I ask you in particular not to camp there (it is prohibited in addition); on the other hand you can meet chamois in the paddle and in the twilight, which go up on thatches to graze.

Route Description

The climbing in Martinswand: Martinswand is a school of climbing entirely re-equipped at the beginning of the years 1990. As it is granite (has coarse quartz grains), the points in place are concrete (spit + plate). The rock is excellent, a bit abrasive and not patinated at all (granite),what limits the use of magnesia : the exposure to the sun and the wind make it possible. On the other hand it permits to climb a half hour after the rain. You will find much “gas” : the cliff is under Germanic influence even for the climbing. The catches are primarily made up of cracks in a quite compact granite. It will be necessary to re-examine your technique of Dulfer with wedging of hands and feet .
The difficulties are: 3b to the 7c with what to have fun in the 4 and the 5. Attention, quotations are not offered and these "easy ways" are not overprotected : they are historical ways. Ever you are on the rock, you have a superb sight on the small valley of Frankenthal and all the valley of Munster.The total height of cliff is 100 to 120m. It is possible to join the foot of the cliff by circumventing it by the south, realising a small desescalation of 2 but it is more pleasant to make 3 recalls since the top. A cord of recall of 90m is adviced.
Topo: "Topo of Climbing of the Vosges of the South" published by the CAF of Mulhouse. It gathers all information to climb in Matinswand and in seven other sites of the corner. You can buy it at the Office Tourism of Munster in the centre town.
Informations.The closest camp-sites are at the bottom of the valley of Munster (Mittlach) or around the Lake Longemer. There has possibility of sleeping in the refuge of the Trois Fours,or at the Schlucht (hotels for hikers). The bivouac at the foot of the ways is impossible. In Frankenthal, it is prohibited; on the large peak, it is disadvised: many tourists the day and chamois the night.

Essential Gear

Rope

Images

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