Glocknerkamp (Meletzkigrat)

Intro

Information is copied from the main page of Grossglockner: Meletzkigrat (Glocknerkarkamp), PD, II, 35° First ascent of Meletzkigrat by A. Gulden, H. Gulden, H. Mechwart, J. Bernsteiner, A. Lackner & J. Rubitsch 27.7.1892. The route was forgotten long time, until E. Meletzki and G. Hecht used the route again 2.9.1925.

Approach

After crossing Pasterza

DoJo - Climbing Meletzkigrat

Glocknerkamp is also known as Meletzkigrat (Meletzki  Ridge).

You start the tour at the end of Grossglockner road, descend to Pasterza glacier and cross it like on the normal ascent over Hofmannskees. After Hofmannsweg climbs the first rocks and crosses to the Hofmannskees, you decide to take this ridge as a shortcut to Adlersruhe.

Route Description

Glocknerkamp in June

The view from Glocknerkamp

When Hofmannsweg reaches Hofmannskees you proceed upwards, soon turn back right on the ridge (Gnocknerkamp) and climb over it. Climbing is easy, time to time you choose best passages on the northern and southern side. On the upper part, the ridge becomes steeper (up to some 45 degrees) and you should choose the snow-covered slopes on its southern side (above Hofmannskees). So you reach the upper plateau and cross it in the direction towards Adlersruhe. From there proceed by the usual ascent to the summit.

On the picture below the Erzherzog-Johann-Hütte is not seen (it's more to the left), but nicely is seen the Glocknerleitl - the snow/ice passage on the ridge of Kleinglockner.

See full screen

Essential Gear

We did this ascent back in 1983 with skis on rucksacs. It was June and most of the bottom part of the ridge was free of snow. Ot the upper part snow conditions were perfect, which might not be the case later in summer. For the ascent we needed a snow axe and crampons and for the summit ascent the rope too. On Glocknerkamp stay more or less on the ridge - on more difficult places there are also some bolts. Skiing down over Hofmannskees was then of course a great pleasure.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1

DoJo - Sep 13, 2006 9:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Route Description + Gear

stay more or less on the ridge (there are some bolts in the difficult parts).

Viewing: 1-1 of 1