Gertch’s Folly, 5.9, 7 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Gertch’s Folly is located on a “Low Horn” of the Organ Mountains named after an early prospector who apparently died in a prospecting accident nearby.  This is probably one of the more popular climbs on the Low Horns (the Tooth and Wedge are considered part of the High Horns) but that does not mean you will escape the dense cat claw on approach.  We ascended one way and descended another, both times following intermittent cairns, but the vegetation in this area stays ahead of any human or deer traffic.  MP.com consensus is 5.9 and the old Falcon Guide does not have this route listed. The MP grade has been upgraded to a modern grade from the FAers.  That said, not but one or two 5.9 moves on the route. 

This is a prominent western face that is in clear view at the north end of the camping area on the west side.   The approach is about the same as the Tooth, 2hrs +/-, with a fair amount of route finding through dense vegetation.  Like the Tooth and the Wedge, the wind and elevation gain can offer considerably lower temps on the face than back at camp.  In warmer temps, if you get an early start, the route climbs relatively fast allowing a competent party to climb mostly in the shade.  The first two pitches offer a bit of chimney technique.  The third pitch ventures out right of the main tall corner system.  The fourth pitch re-enters the main corner whilst the fifth pitch again ventures out right a bit.  The sixth pitch is the crux and offers the best climbing on the route.  It heads out right from the corner and takes on overlapping minor roofs.  It involves some sporty, but fun, climbing at the grade through several pins and decent micro gear.

As beforementioned, we went up one way and descended another, both were cairned (2021).  In either case, you hike the gated road directly west of the Low Horns up to the old homestead.  One path takes off south from the west end of the homestead, the other takes off southeast from the east end of the homestead.   Your objective is in view the whole way, a right leaning corner system up the middle of the face and bordered to the north by a large roof.  The idea is to gain a ridge system that leads to the south side of the west face of Gertch.  From there traverse back north to the base of the obvious right facing corner system.  The first pitch starts in a chossy stem chimney and follows the corner system up from there.  Most belays are at modern (2021) fixed rap stations on decent ledges.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 100’-5.7/ Stem up the initial choss corner below and to the right of a massive roof.  Land at a ledge below a short chimney.  Fixed rap (2021).

2^nd Pitch- 180’-5.7/ Fun stemming up and through a chimney.  Continue up the same corner to a neat steep section that is a bit loose.  Climb through here and belay on a large ledge to the right, fixed rap.

3rd Pitch- 160’-5.8/ Out right and up a ramp, then meander lower angled ground to below another chimney.  Fixed Rap.

4^th Pitch- 160’-5.8/ Climb up the chimney and angle right to a small belay ledge.  Fixed Rap.

5^th Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Climb up and right and pull around a blind corner and traverse up and right to a medium to small gear belay. 

6^th Pitch- 80’-5.9/ The crux of the climb and a good pitch.  Traverse out right across the slab.  Step up and follow three pitons (2021) through a series of minor roofs. After the last piton, make an improbable move following the corner via a foot edge to a reachy blind hold.  If you get drawn out right, you will lose pro options.  Micro cams work through these overlapping roofs in place of or in addition to the pitons.  Continue up easy ground to a fixed cam (2021) below a roof.  Move up and left through the easy chimney.  Belay here so you are set to traverse left to the top of the rap route.  If you go up to the summit shoulder you will have gone too high.

7^th Pitch- 30’-5^th/ Traverse left on the slabs to the fixed rap.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Rap with 60m doubles to the top of pitch 4.  Rap the route in four double rope raps from there.

Essential Gear

Double 60m ropes.  The gear call on MP.com, doubles to #3, seems excessive.  I took single to #2.  Double from #.3 to #.5.  A couple micros and selection of wires.  Stays shaded until noon.  Can be windy, dress accordingly.   The rap bolts are modern as of 2021, but are corded, not chained.  Take extra cord for replacement in case you are not happy with some of it.