Crying Time Again

Approach

Walk around the western side of Lembert Dome (to the left of the big slabs), and start to follow the trail up the hill. When the highest point of the headwall is on your right, leave the trail and start looking for the base of the climb. Since it is on a sparsely bolted face, the start isn't very obvious. Instead, look for the strongly diagonal cracks (up and to the right) of the Direct Northwest Face's first pitch. Crying Time Again starts just to the left of those cracks.

Route Description

Crying Time Again is runout face climbing. Though all the pitches (save for the last) are 5.9 or easier, you should lead harder than 10.a before you jump onto it. There are a few potential falls for the follower on 5.9 territory, so make sure they are solid at the grade as well.

The first pitch presents difficulties right off the bat. The leader can either climb unprotected 5.7 slab straight up to a bolt, or climb up to a lower bolt, but then make a 5.8 traverse with fall potential for the follower. If you have a 60m rope you can link pitches 1 & 2, following the face up to a ledge, which you can walk out on to the right for a bolted anchor.

Pitch two (three if you aren't linking....) has 5.9 just above the belay, then a 5.7 mantel well above a bolt. The pitches wanders left, then back right up a 5.8 face with a total of three bolts in 70 feet. Gear anchor after 2.

Pitch three is some serious business. It starts with relatively well-protected 5.9 face and knobs, then goes into a long runout on 5.7 terrain. You will then find one bolt, above which there is a 5.9 mantel and an unprotected traverse left to the bolted belay. Fall potential for the follower here.

Pitch four goes left, right, then back left up ledges and 5.8-5.9 face with 5 bolts in 70 feet. Bolted belay.

Pitch five has several options. I called the climb 10.a because that is the only well-protected exit. From the P4 anchors, go up and left for 5.9R, straight up for 5.9X, or right and up for well-protected, steep and glorious 5.10a face. Bolted anchors at the top.

Essential Gear

Bring a set of nuts and some cams up to 2". You will be clipping bolts for the most part, so make sure you have plenty of draws, and preferably some long slings to help with rope drag.

Retreat is only possible from the top of pitch one without leaving gear.

A strong stomach helps on this one.

Miscellaneous Info

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