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5294 Hits
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72.08% Score
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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48.61910°N / 116.6967°W |
Route Type:
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Multipitch Crack Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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III 5.9+ |
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Approach
See the main page. Approach to the east face. The start of Cooper Hiser begins at the left angling thin flake with the dead tree coming out.
Route Description
Pitch #1 - 5.9+ - 190 feet - Start this pitch by jambing the left angling finger crack to the dead tree then up to a corner. The crux move is right at the tree. Stay left after this moving up the crack systems towards the steep crack in the corner. Now jamb the corner crack with some stemming (strenuous 5.9). Keep moving past the first set of bolts, and belay at the second set under a block at an alcove. There is an awkward chimney with loose rock just below the belay. The belay has a nice flake top to sit on.
Pitch #2 - 5.9+ - 175 feet - This pitch starts by traversing to the left accross some balancy moves (5.8) then up some handcracks to gain the obvious chimney system. Move up here until a hand and finger crack appears to the left of the chimney. Jamb this crack (crux) till it ends. Keep moving up easier terrain until the belay bolts at the tunnel. Do not belay here. Cross through the tunnel and belay on the other side below the south arete of Chimney.
Pitch #3 - 5.9 - 75 feet - Move up some easy terrain to the base of the obvious arete. Move up through a couple balancy, insecure feeling moves until you can clip the bolt on the right side of the arete. Now haul yourself up the arete, and belay from the summit.
Descent: You can either rappel the standard chimney, or as follows: Rap from the south nose to the ledge system. Walk around to the east side and rappel at the bolts. A full 30 meter rappel will get you to the base of the Magnum Force. Do not try this with a 50 meter rope! Now walk around the corner to the west side and scramble down to the base of the west face.
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Essential Gear
1 or 2 sets of cams from .4 to 4"
1 set of nuts
Many slings
60 or 70 meter rope
Ratings
This route is rated III 5.9- in the guidebook Idaho Rock, by Randall Green. I have adjusted the ratings slightly as I saw them. I've spoken to others who have climbed this route, and they agreed with my corrections.
Misc.
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.