Snofzig - Jun 25, 2020 10:12 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2020
Snowy Summit
The terror basin is still quite snow covered, but the scramble is just rock for the last 200 ish feet. Fun time, and very socially distant.
Matt Lemke - Sep 29, 2019 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2019
Part of a Southern Pickets Traverse
Climbing the SE side of West Mac was actually pretty wild. Descent down west side was easy. We bivied at the nice spot at the base of the west ridge after a long day starting from the trailhead, climbing up and over Little Mac, East Mac and West Mac.
Decided to go up to Terror Basin with a friend, and thought we'd tag McMillan since we hauled all the way out here. This probably isn't the best place to train a budding mountaineer, but we had a good time practicing snow skills and travel, and we made it up to 7500' along the W. Spine of W. McMillan. He decided that the scramble was too exposed beyond this point, and we turned around. However, the scramble up to the top looks to be in good condition, and there isn't any snow beyond 7500'. We had a great time glissading on the snowfield's more gradual slopes, and the views from camp in the basin are fantastic. Great time in the Pickets, and hopefully we can grab a summit next time.
My friend made an excellent annotated CalTopo map with a GPS track, as the previous one we had found was for snowier conditions, and as such quickly deviated from the established trails after it left the forest, much to our navigational dismay. This new track should work for the warmer months as there is little snow until you hit the notch above Terror basin.
https://caltopo.com/m/R3U3
andrewbares - May 30, 2018 6:49 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2018
Attempt, took the wrong notch
Tried to make it but was following a map that had the wrong notch labeled, so we ended way far from McMillan. Here's a correct map: https://caltopo.com/m/NVVF
Snow was pretty icy in the mornings, crampons were nice.
Beckey mentions a 5.6-5.7 route, but I found that the obvious grassy crack/ledge went at no harder than 5.0 with one very exposed move, and saved a lot of downclimbing and traversing when coming from East McMillan. Part of a long day of Picketing (15h45 car-to-car), also featuring East McMillan Spire, Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror. Trip report.
nickmech - Apr 8, 2014 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
West Ridge
Terror Basin camp stormy but cleared for a quick summit and views.
YEM - Jun 26, 2013 2:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009
West Ridge
We approached Terror Basin on the hottest day of the year. John Roper was there to greet us as he returned to camp. The climb was technically easy and the smooth bedrock was greatly appreciated. The view from the summit is breathtaking!
RomaK - Feb 27, 2013 8:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
West ridge
Date +/- 1 week. Very physically grueling climb. Total of just over 10,000 vertical ft gain in 2 days (a bit more than Rainier from Paradise). Trail is very steep, but Mt. Baring climber's trail on the scramble route is steeper!
Descent to Terror Basin camp was steep snow (short 50 degree pitch) rather than scree. Scramble is beautiful and quite straightforward. The position on that ridge is unbelievable. Easily one of the most beautiful places I've seen. Got lucky and had a sea of clouds down below on summit day.
relic - Feb 23, 2013 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2001
Standard scramble route.
Date is a guess. The "easy" Picket, well worth the brutal elevation gain.
But be warned, this is a gateway drug to an addiction for the Pickets, after seeing all those fangs of rock, you'll come back and go deeper, wanting more and stronger doses, and find yourself willing to pay the pusher any price.
Norman - Nov 25, 2012 10:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
West Ridge
Weather initially iffy, but all came together on summit day.
Snofzig - Jun 25, 2020 10:12 am Date Climbed: Jun 23, 2020
Snowy SummitThe terror basin is still quite snow covered, but the scramble is just rock for the last 200 ish feet. Fun time, and very socially distant.
Matt Lemke - Sep 29, 2019 4:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2019
Part of a Southern Pickets TraverseClimbing the SE side of West Mac was actually pretty wild. Descent down west side was easy. We bivied at the nice spot at the base of the west ridge after a long day starting from the trailhead, climbing up and over Little Mac, East Mac and West Mac.
Snofzig - Jul 22, 2019 6:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2019
Great Weather on McMillanDecided to go up to Terror Basin with a friend, and thought we'd tag McMillan since we hauled all the way out here. This probably isn't the best place to train a budding mountaineer, but we had a good time practicing snow skills and travel, and we made it up to 7500' along the W. Spine of W. McMillan. He decided that the scramble was too exposed beyond this point, and we turned around. However, the scramble up to the top looks to be in good condition, and there isn't any snow beyond 7500'. We had a great time glissading on the snowfield's more gradual slopes, and the views from camp in the basin are fantastic. Great time in the Pickets, and hopefully we can grab a summit next time.
My friend made an excellent annotated CalTopo map with a GPS track, as the previous one we had found was for snowier conditions, and as such quickly deviated from the established trails after it left the forest, much to our navigational dismay. This new track should work for the warmer months as there is little snow until you hit the notch above Terror basin.
https://caltopo.com/m/R3U3
andrewbares - May 30, 2018 6:49 am Date Climbed: May 26, 2018
Attempt, took the wrong notchTried to make it but was following a map that had the wrong notch labeled, so we ended way far from McMillan. Here's a correct map: https://caltopo.com/m/NVVF
Snow was pretty icy in the mornings, crampons were nice.
seano - Jul 28, 2014 5:50 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2014
Southeast faceBeckey mentions a 5.6-5.7 route, but I found that the obvious grassy crack/ledge went at no harder than 5.0 with one very exposed move, and saved a lot of downclimbing and traversing when coming from East McMillan. Part of a long day of Picketing (15h45 car-to-car), also featuring East McMillan Spire, Pyramid, Degenhardt, and Terror. Trip report.
nickmech - Apr 8, 2014 2:39 pm Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
West RidgeTerror Basin camp stormy but cleared for a quick summit and views.
YEM - Jun 26, 2013 2:02 am Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2009
West RidgeWe approached Terror Basin on the hottest day of the year. John Roper was there to greet us as he returned to camp. The climb was technically easy and the smooth bedrock was greatly appreciated. The view from the summit is breathtaking!
RomaK - Feb 27, 2013 8:23 pm Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2012
West ridgeDate +/- 1 week. Very physically grueling climb. Total of just over 10,000 vertical ft gain in 2 days (a bit more than Rainier from Paradise). Trail is very steep, but Mt. Baring climber's trail on the scramble route is steeper!
Descent to Terror Basin camp was steep snow (short 50 degree pitch) rather than scree. Scramble is beautiful and quite straightforward. The position on that ridge is unbelievable. Easily one of the most beautiful places I've seen. Got lucky and had a sea of clouds down below on summit day.
relic - Feb 23, 2013 3:19 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2001
Standard scramble route.Date is a guess. The "easy" Picket, well worth the brutal elevation gain.
But be warned, this is a gateway drug to an addiction for the Pickets, after seeing all those fangs of rock, you'll come back and go deeper, wanting more and stronger doses, and find yourself willing to pay the pusher any price.
Norman - Nov 25, 2012 10:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2009
West RidgeWeather initially iffy, but all came together on summit day.