Page Type: | Route |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 45.91915°N / 9.39589°E |
Route Type: | Trad Climbing |
Time Required: | Most of a day |
Difficulty: | 5° UIAA |
Rock Difficulty: | 5.8 (YDS) |
Number of Pitches: | 4 |
via RIZIERI very amusing, continuous and delicate climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure. Starting point is about 20 m under the chimney between a big tower (Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale) and the Sigaro. Climb on a big detached stone than cross to get the wall. Straight on for some meters than slightly to left along a superficial small channel till the first belay point. (4°) Slightly toward right to get a crack leading under a small roof, exit to the right and, slightly toward left till the second belay point. (5°) Now cross to the right (20m - 4° and 5°) to get the third belay. Straght to the summit (15m - 4° and 3°) |
via CASSIN more difficult but not as amusing as the previous one, continuous and a little stronger climb, wonderful rock, extreme exposure. Starting point is the chimney between Torrione Magnaghi Meridionale and the Sigaro. Along the chimney to the saddle (25m - 4°) Straight on than, on the right, follow the edge till the second belay of the Rizieri route (A1 - many pegs) To the left under a overhang (to be climbed - 5°), along a short wall and a small roof (5°+) than to the left to get a small channel that leads to the summit. |
UIAA | French | USA |
1° | F | 2 |
2° | PD | 3 - 4 |
3°inf - 3° - 3° sup | AD | 5 - 5.2 |
4° inf - 4° - 4° sup | D | 5.3 - 5.5 |
5° inf - 5° - 5° sup | TD | 5.6 - 5.8 |
6° inf - 6° - 6° sup | ED | 5.9 - 5.11 |
7° | EX | 5.11a - 5.11b |