....I guess a bit of "cragging" is good when the mountains are engulfed in crappy weather - kind of the reason why I've been adding these Smith features.
Thank you for the good vote and the cool route additions (been thinking of doing Sky Chimney - that lieback part - I think you mention it's 30 feet - could be a bit spooky?).
Nah, it's not too bad, just the first two moves or so gettting started in it are creaky, the rest of it is solid. It's a funky route, and the views of the main climbing area are fun. When you're done, post any corrections you feel are worthy, as I wrote my description from an old memory, and may have made a mistake or two. It's more of a description to entice people to try it, I assume that climbers will check the guidebook before actually doing the route, so any corrections you make while the route is fresh in your head would greatly help.
I suppose that next you'll post the Christian Brothers or the Red Wall, or the 4 Horsemen as a peak. When you do, I'm all ready to add some more route descriptions. I'd do it myself, but my photos are low in volume and quality.
PS, thanks for the Wherever I May Roam route description. I saw the beginning of that route in the summer of 2001, and wondered what it was. I'll be climbing in the Sierras and in Oregon for all of July this coming summer, if I make it to Smith, it's the first thing I'll try. Never skip a Ryan Lawson route if you have the chance. Cheers.
Thanks for the cool route additions. Been thinking of Sky Chimney but I think we'll give Sky Ridge a crack first (supposedly the crux 5.8 face moves are nicely bolted - apparently some of it's been retro bolted by R.L.). Do you have any photos of either Sky Chimney/Ridge - those would be cool to see?
The Christian Brothers thing.....well, was thinking of trying that Christian Brothers Traverse route (5.7X) but after talking to two people who've done it, I think we'll wait for some time before giving that a crack (loose and runout = dangerous for climbers and for the folks down below - it's best to do this route offseason and mid-week when there's no people down below). Have you done that one? I think the Red Wall is a more likely addition - want to do Super slab and Moscow but have had some bad luck on first 2 attempts of super slab (forgetting 2nd rope and rain = bail after first pich of S. Slab).
Wasn't exactly sure how Wherever I May Roam would be received by the SP audience since it IS bolted all the way - but I think it's a great route and there's little out there about it (my argument was that a lot of the cool stuff at Smith is face climbing and hence bolted). Got a couple more new (month or two old) R.L. routes - let me know if you want beta on those (both are in the Kiss of the Leppers area n. of Monkey - unless you already know of them.
Sure, post the new RL routes. Most of his routes in the Marsupials are excellent, so I have no small amount of faith of routes he's done in other areas. I'm prettty clueless about new routes, since it was about 4 years ago that I was really active there. Never did the Christian Brothers traverse, or Sky Ridge for that matter. May I suggest the West Face Variation of Monkey face, it's a long fun day, and of course, you've already done Spiderman haven't you?
....actually have not yet done Spiderman (been working up the nerve to lead it). Next on my "tic list" is the West Face variation of the Pioneer Route (though I'll probably rap from the notch - doing the bolt ladder twice in one year is one time too many for me).
I'll try to add the Kiss of the Lepers area sometime in the next few weeks (there are two great new RL routes there - one of which is beyond our abilities now, 10c A2 bolted). If you are going to be at Smith before I add these, let me know and I can just email you whatever beta I have.
Congrats on the Sky Ridge climb. You are now overqualified to lead all the pitches on Spiderman. It isn't that bad, the roof is overhanging, but the jugs are so huge, it just feels so good! The crux is actually in the dihedral below, but it sucks up gear, so just go for it! I found Sky Chimney to be a little more scary, cause it isn't climbed as often, but hey, you've done Sky Ridge, which I never had the nerve to do.
Actually I think Sky Chimney looks WAY more intimidating than Sky Ridge (had the pleasure of rapping down next to it --- ouch!). The latter has this unpleasant start on crappy rock (what I called pitch 2 but what the book calls pitch1) - but it really is easy (5.4 maybe 5.5 range). Just test your holds before committing. What makes it intimidating the 1st time around (and I was spared this part since our friends went ahead of us as a separate team) is that you can't really see the first (double) bolts on the west face until they're almost in your face. Also, you can sling a solid-looking boulder just above the start of pitch 1. This gives you a fairly solid piece that would keep you off the ground (the deck is closer on the west side) almost until you reach the bolts (no falls allowed zone about 10 feet before the bolts). Although I did not have it with me, I think you can get a really solid #3.5 Camalot placement about 1/2 way to the bolts in a nice pocket (I know that #3 Camalot was too small).
What I'm trying to say is that it's a pretty neat route with an OUTSTANDING position that I think you'd really enjoy.
kletterwebbi - Mar 20, 2003 11:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentVery good idea to add the famous "Smithies" to SP. Good page.
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 8:46 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the nice vote!
....I guess a bit of "cragging" is good when the mountains are engulfed in crappy weather - kind of the reason why I've been adding these Smith features.
radek
Dave K - Mar 21, 2003 6:03 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentVery good page and an important addition to Oregon's peaks.
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 8:42 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote.
radek
mrolph - Mar 21, 2003 8:05 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentWell done! Thanks for another quality page,
Martin
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 8:41 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the nice vote and the kind remarks.
radek
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 8:40 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the nice vote.
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 8:44 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote and the cool route additions (been thinking of doing Sky Chimney - that lieback part - I think you mention it's 30 feet - could be a bit spooky?).
radek
keema - Mar 21, 2003 11:01 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentExcellent page. Good information and addition to SP.
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 1:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote!
rpc
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 2:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThank you for the good vote!
radek
Brian Jenkins - Mar 21, 2003 12:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentAs usual, most excellent! Glad you added this.
rpc - Mar 21, 2003 2:57 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks for the vote Brian!
radek
darinchadwick - Mar 24, 2003 7:17 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentNah, it's not too bad, just the first two moves or so gettting started in it are creaky, the rest of it is solid. It's a funky route, and the views of the main climbing area are fun. When you're done, post any corrections you feel are worthy, as I wrote my description from an old memory, and may have made a mistake or two. It's more of a description to entice people to try it, I assume that climbers will check the guidebook before actually doing the route, so any corrections you make while the route is fresh in your head would greatly help.
I suppose that next you'll post the Christian Brothers or the Red Wall, or the 4 Horsemen as a peak. When you do, I'm all ready to add some more route descriptions. I'd do it myself, but my photos are low in volume and quality.
darinchadwick - Mar 24, 2003 7:22 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentPS, thanks for the Wherever I May Roam route description. I saw the beginning of that route in the summer of 2001, and wondered what it was. I'll be climbing in the Sierras and in Oregon for all of July this coming summer, if I make it to Smith, it's the first thing I'll try. Never skip a Ryan Lawson route if you have the chance. Cheers.
Darin.
rpc - Mar 24, 2003 12:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentDarin,
Thanks for the cool route additions. Been thinking of Sky Chimney but I think we'll give Sky Ridge a crack first (supposedly the crux 5.8 face moves are nicely bolted - apparently some of it's been retro bolted by R.L.). Do you have any photos of either Sky Chimney/Ridge - those would be cool to see?
The Christian Brothers thing.....well, was thinking of trying that Christian Brothers Traverse route (5.7X) but after talking to two people who've done it, I think we'll wait for some time before giving that a crack (loose and runout = dangerous for climbers and for the folks down below - it's best to do this route offseason and mid-week when there's no people down below). Have you done that one? I think the Red Wall is a more likely addition - want to do Super slab and Moscow but have had some bad luck on first 2 attempts of super slab (forgetting 2nd rope and rain = bail after first pich of S. Slab).
Wasn't exactly sure how Wherever I May Roam would be received by the SP audience since it IS bolted all the way - but I think it's a great route and there's little out there about it (my argument was that a lot of the cool stuff at Smith is face climbing and hence bolted). Got a couple more new (month or two old) R.L. routes - let me know if you want beta on those (both are in the Kiss of the Leppers area n. of Monkey - unless you already know of them.
radek
darinchadwick - Mar 30, 2003 2:26 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentSure, post the new RL routes. Most of his routes in the Marsupials are excellent, so I have no small amount of faith of routes he's done in other areas. I'm prettty clueless about new routes, since it was about 4 years ago that I was really active there. Never did the Christian Brothers traverse, or Sky Ridge for that matter. May I suggest the West Face Variation of Monkey face, it's a long fun day, and of course, you've already done Spiderman haven't you?
rpc - Apr 1, 2003 8:59 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentDarin,
....actually have not yet done Spiderman (been working up the nerve to lead it). Next on my "tic list" is the West Face variation of the Pioneer Route (though I'll probably rap from the notch - doing the bolt ladder twice in one year is one time too many for me).
I'll try to add the Kiss of the Lepers area sometime in the next few weeks (there are two great new RL routes there - one of which is beyond our abilities now, 10c A2 bolted). If you are going to be at Smith before I add these, let me know and I can just email you whatever beta I have.
radek
darinchadwick - Apr 1, 2003 10:16 am - Voted 10/10
Untitled CommentCongrats on the Sky Ridge climb. You are now overqualified to lead all the pitches on Spiderman. It isn't that bad, the roof is overhanging, but the jugs are so huge, it just feels so good! The crux is actually in the dihedral below, but it sucks up gear, so just go for it! I found Sky Chimney to be a little more scary, cause it isn't climbed as often, but hey, you've done Sky Ridge, which I never had the nerve to do.
Darin.
rpc - Apr 1, 2003 10:31 am - Hasn't voted
Untitled CommentThanks Darin.
Actually I think Sky Chimney looks WAY more intimidating than Sky Ridge (had the pleasure of rapping down next to it --- ouch!). The latter has this unpleasant start on crappy rock (what I called pitch 2 but what the book calls pitch1) - but it really is easy (5.4 maybe 5.5 range). Just test your holds before committing. What makes it intimidating the 1st time around (and I was spared this part since our friends went ahead of us as a separate team) is that you can't really see the first (double) bolts on the west face until they're almost in your face. Also, you can sling a solid-looking boulder just above the start of pitch 1. This gives you a fairly solid piece that would keep you off the ground (the deck is closer on the west side) almost until you reach the bolts (no falls allowed zone about 10 feet before the bolts). Although I did not have it with me, I think you can get a really solid #3.5 Camalot placement about 1/2 way to the bolts in a nice pocket (I know that #3 Camalot was too small).
What I'm trying to say is that it's a pretty neat route with an OUTSTANDING position that I think you'd really enjoy.
Radek