| Sunshine-Redcloud Route Emporium Route |
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| Sunshine-Redcloud Route Emporium   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Colorado, United States, North America Lat/Lon: 37.92280°N / 107.425°W Route Type: Steep Hike Time Required: Most of a day Difficulty: Class 2
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| Page By: Aaron Johnson Created/Edited: Sep 11, 2003 / Sep 7, 2007 Object ID: 158780 Hits: 1289 Loading... Page Score: 86.63% - 2 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
OverviewWelcome to the Sunshine - Redcloud Route Emporium. This special route page has been designed with the circumstances and geography of these two fourteeners in mind. The Route Emporium is in two sections, each featured from two respective approaches to these lofty San Juan peaks. Other routes not covered in this emporium are available in many popular guidebooks.
If you plan on climbing Sunshine alone or first, read this page. If you plan on climbing Redcloud alone or first, read this page.
Approach & MapFrom Lake City, drive south on Colorado 149 for 2 miles, turning right onto the Lake San Cristobal Road. The blue Columbine Alpine Loop signs also indicate your route. Follow the paved road around the lake, where it turns into a dirt road. 13 miles from town is the Mill Creek Campground, located on your left. Turn in to the campground, crossing a bridge. Immediately past the bridge on either side of the road are areas where you can park your car.
Route Overview Map |
Mill Creek RouteThis involved route requires route finding skills, and experience in climbing steep San Juan terrain is suggested. Though straightforward and rated only Class 2, this route is not suggested for beginning peak baggers.--AJ
Walk back across the bridge and angle west as you cross the road. On the north side of the road is a telephone pedastel (a green, metallic tower about 30 inches high). It is essential that you start at this pedastel, because it marks your trailhead! (See map in this section-the X in the lower right hand corner denotes this location).
Beyond you’ll see a scant use trail. Follow this trail up the grassy slope about 80 feet. It angles north and intercepts other faint trails and turns back east. Follow this narrow track trail, crossing some fallen trees as you enter a long, grassy clearing. The trail practically becomes nonexistent, but keep an eye out for cairns. This eastward course is necessary to bypass cliffs and buttresses to your immediate north.
Before a grove of aspens, the route climbs onto a ramping bench at 9,600 feet and climbs up this ramp back toward the west. To the north, Sunshine’s massive south slopes, clothed in a great shroud of forest, look down upon you. The route is now regularly cairned, but other evidence of foot travel may be sketchy through this section. Be on the constant look-out for clues of those who have gone before.
Once the ramp levels off at about 9760 feet, the route turns north and begins a steep and relentless climb directly up the slopes through the forest. The Forest Service obviously had nothing to do with the development of this trail, which is now plainly evident due to erosion. The trail climbs in a direct and merciless line through the forest up steep hardpacked scree. Cairns will also guide you.
At around 11,000 feet, the trail levels off and contours northeast across a boulder strewn slope. The terrain of large black rock is fairly stable (for the San Juans anyway). In the middle of this rock heap, pass through a couple of tough trees. On the other side of this rock field, the trail turns left and climbs once again up a steep slope to another rock field. Cairns are abundant, so watch for them and stay in the stable areas that have been traversed before.
A brief spot of trees leads to yet a third rock field. To access this rock field, you duck beneath a tree branch as you hike west onto the rocks at the base of an unstable rock heap. Go about twenty feet along the base of this pile, then make a sharp right, following cairns up the east side of the rock field. Refer to the map in this section, in which these rock fields are indicated with dark spots and are numbered accordingly.
The route gets sketchy above the rocks as it meanders through more trees of the thinning forest. Watch for cairns, some of which were added by the author. As you approach timberline, the route will pass through some long since fallen timber, bleached white by decades of baking in the San Juan sun. Wind your way through these obstacles and emerge onto the tundra.
Look upslope just to your left and you’ll see two groups of tree clusters. Proceed WNW right between these tree groups (see map). Sparsely placed cairns lead more to the left toward a shallow gully, but you’re better off to stay to the right (north) of this gully on the sure footing of the tundra. Remember where these trees are. It is essential upon your return to find these tree landmarks if you are to successfully reunite with the trail.
Important Landmark-Click for More Information! |
Sunshine Peak East Ridge |
At about 12,500 feet, the vast tundra slopes and reveal your ultimate quarry: Sunshine Peak awaits your arrival due west, left of the ridge crag. Hike toward the center of the broad ridge. As the slope steepens, the rocks take over and cairns should lead you up use trails though the heaping talus. If you stay on the trail, the terrain is pleasantly secure Class 2 (as San Juan peaks go, anyway).
Stable San Juan Talus |
Around 13,200 feet, some scree/talus mix will be encountered, but it is not difficult and will make for a nice descent on your return. The well worn trail stays generally on the south side of the narrowing ridge. Some rocks have settled onto the route in places and you may elect to stay on the ridge proper, which is fine. Both options work well.
Sunshine Peak Summit |
Follow the route across stable talus up the east ridge to Sunshine Peak. Chances are you’ll see no one on this route until you reach the top! If you are also climbing Redcloud Peak, follow the well worn trail to that mountain due north. Return the same route. HOWEVER--
Sunshine Peak NE Slopes Summit Traverse |
You do not have to go back over Sunshine. If you’d prefer to bypass Sunshine’s summit on your return from Redcloud, do the following. As you approach Sunshine from Redcloud, study Sunshine’s talus strewn northeast face and look sharp for a route that contours directly across the face at about 13,760 feet. This route begins at a light colored spot on Sunshine’s northeast ridge. When you reach this spot, go left and follow a thin but well-worn single track across the stable talus of Sunshine’s northeast face. Referenced in Gerry Roach’s guide on the14ers, this route works extremely well and makes for an expedient and effortless bypass of the summit cone. Rendezvous with your original route and follow it back to your starting point.
This route may be a variation of this route, submitted by SP member Wayne Afflick. In his text, Wayne mentions that there is no trail at first, which may indicate his route followed another course. Somehere above timberline, these routes would converge.
IMPORTANT DESCENT TIPS
Remember to look sharp for the two tree clusters you passed through on your climb as you descend back to timberline. It is imperative you do this to rendezvous with your route in the trees (in the sunbleached deadfall area). If you fail to do this, you could loose the route and end up bushwacking blindly down slope, and possibly encounter cliffs and other unknown perils below. Once at timberline, retracing your route is fast and easy, as the cairns are more evident on the descent.
SHUTTLE OPTION
This option is designed with climbing both Redcloud and Sunshine in a traverse that does not require a return to your starting point. Two vehicles are required.
Park one vehicle at the Silver Creek Trailhead. Return to the Mill Creek Campground. An ascent of Sunshine can be executed via the Mill Creek trail, followed by a traverse over to Redcloud. Descend one of Redcloud’s options, seen here. Upon arrival at Silver Creek, a drive down the road to retrieve the other vehicle.
Another option is to descend the Northwest Face Route (far more interesting) of Sunshine Peak if you wish to bypass Redcloud during your shuttle climb of Sunshine.
DISTANCES & GAIN
MILES: 8.5 miles (Redcloud & Sunshine) 6 miles (Sunshine only)
GAIN: 5,116 feet
Essential GearRoute finding abilities are essential, as well as “cairn awareness.” Boots with good ankle support are a necessity, otherwise the climb is quite grueling, and the descent will be absolute murder on your feet. Traction is actually better after a rain storm, as the hardpacked scree holds together better than when it is dry, providing better traction.
There is absolutely no water on this route. Bring plenty of water.
The long day also exposes you to the elements for an extended period. Be prepared for horrendous San Juan weather when attempting these mountains.
A winter or spring ascent via Mill Creek would be grueling and is not recommended. Avalanche danger above timberline would be immediate in the winter.
Images
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San Juan Range
