We hauled our packs all the way from Roads end to near the summit of Gardiner. Great training! We elected to rope up for the final ridge section, which is super cool! If you're super confident on 4th class stuff you'll be fine without a rope but we were happy we had one.
The ridge portion is indeed enjoyable. Back in my home range, the North Cascades, a knife edge like that we'd call 5.0. Of course, the rock would likely be crappier.
RoryKuykendall - Sep 10, 2014 1:03 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2013
Not quite
Took a day off work from my job at Furnace Creek Ranch to attempt this as a dayhike from Onion Valley. Really enjoyed the approach from Charlotte Lake. Started feeling not so hot at about 12,000 feet (I was living 200 feet below sea level at the time). I got to the base of the South Summit but decided to bail on the class 4 and descend into Gardiner Basin and eat lunch. Ended up hiking back through 60 Lakes Basin, past Rae Lakes, and Glen Pass. All in all a fantastic 17 hour day in the High Sierra.
cab - Sep 2, 2014 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
From Onion Valley
First peak of a 3 day Labor Day adventure. Climbed Gardiner on Day 1 from Onion Valley. The final ridge to the summit was great fun on solid, exposed Class 3+ rock. Climbed Cotter and Clarence King on Day 2.
Climbed Gardiner after an exciting climb of Cotter. A slog up to the south summit. Some easy 4th class scrambling and a cool, easy knife edge lead to the true summit. I disagree with others here though - Clarence King is a much more serious and challenging summit.
mrchad9 - Jul 26, 2011 2:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
NE Ridge
Great trip with Vitaliy M. and Max up the NE ridge from the highest lake in 60 Lakes Basin before Clarence King the next day. Fun class 2-3 on the ridge surpassed only by the summit ridge. Really liked this peak.
With Tom and Laura. Mostly a sand-slog and talus-hop, but an exciting finish.
craig512 - Jun 27, 2011 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Gardiner Pass to South summit
This was the toughest hike I've ever done. It took four of us 19 hours from Roads End 6:30am to 1:30am. With the huge amount of water runoff and snow around the South slope we decided to hike up to Gardiner Pass and across the ridge to the South summit because nobody had crampons or waterproof boots. This route does give you excellent views north along the ridge. There was a HUGE avalanche this spring that took out about 300 yards of trees for about a mile or two on the south slope of Gardiner Pass, be careful if crossing this mess. Also, the summit register is missing, so if you do summit bring a pad and pen to leave :(
Desert Solitaire - Oct 2, 2009 11:41 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009
More fun than Clarence King!
Definitely more fun than Clarence King! Climbed in a day from camp as part of the Kings Spur traverse (CK, Cotter, Gardiner). Coming from Gardiner Lakes, I took the sweeping ridge that leads to the lower summit. It was fun class 2-3 scrambling the whole way, and the summit ridge was loooots of scrambling fun. Staying on the knife-edge the WHOLE time bumps up the difficulty to a short 5.5 move.
Long day hike out from Onion Valley. Easy ascent/traverse leads to the South Peak where the fun begins! Descended East Chute and climbed Mt Cotter before the long exit via Rae, Glen, and Kearsarge Passes. Pictures and trip report
Bob Burd - Aug 2, 2008 9:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
From Roads End
Not quite the slog I recalled now that I was only carrying a daypack. Much nicer! Trip Report
Matthew Holliman - Aug 21, 2007 2:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007
Dayhike from Cedar Grove
Ascended the south slopes, then descended the east chute to head over to Cotter. Looped back via Sixty Lakes Basin and the Woods Creek trail--a very long, rather tiring day. The bushwhacking past Charlotte Dome pretty much sapped any drive I had to go and climb that thing, at least until I forget how bad the brush was...
The knife edge is a fun scramble, with nice exposure and perfect holds right where you want them. Some of the easiest 4th class I've climbed in the Sierra.
Route Climbed: South Slope (ascent), East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: July 14, 2000
mconnell and I were on a grand tour of the Gardiner Basin, climbing Mt. Gardiner on the second day. We carried all our crap up to nearly 13,000 ft at the south summit, traversed over to the north summit and back, then carried our gear down to Gardiner Lakes. I had a helluva headache at the high altitude, but the climbing on the knife edge was fantastic. And the climb from Charlotte Creek is an amazing slog. Worse than Mt. Clark's NW Arete approach! Trip report
wmolland - Sep 25, 2019 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2019
Cool summit ridge!We hauled our packs all the way from Roads end to near the summit of Gardiner. Great training! We elected to rope up for the final ridge section, which is super cool! If you're super confident on 4th class stuff you'll be fine without a rope but we were happy we had one.
relic - Sep 3, 2016 12:14 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2016
Via E or NE chuteThe ridge portion is indeed enjoyable. Back in my home range, the North Cascades, a knife edge like that we'd call 5.0. Of course, the rock would likely be crappier.
RoryKuykendall - Sep 10, 2014 1:03 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2013
Not quiteTook a day off work from my job at Furnace Creek Ranch to attempt this as a dayhike from Onion Valley. Really enjoyed the approach from Charlotte Lake. Started feeling not so hot at about 12,000 feet (I was living 200 feet below sea level at the time). I got to the base of the South Summit but decided to bail on the class 4 and descend into Gardiner Basin and eat lunch. Ended up hiking back through 60 Lakes Basin, past Rae Lakes, and Glen Pass. All in all a fantastic 17 hour day in the High Sierra.
cab - Sep 2, 2014 2:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2014
From Onion ValleyFirst peak of a 3 day Labor Day adventure. Climbed Gardiner on Day 1 from Onion Valley. The final ridge to the summit was great fun on solid, exposed Class 3+ rock. Climbed Cotter and Clarence King on Day 2.
bc44caesar - Sep 10, 2011 7:56 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2011
Northeast ChuteClimbed Gardiner after an exciting climb of Cotter. A slog up to the south summit. Some easy 4th class scrambling and a cool, easy knife edge lead to the true summit. I disagree with others here though - Clarence King is a much more serious and challenging summit.
mrchad9 - Jul 26, 2011 2:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2011
NE RidgeGreat trip with Vitaliy M. and Max up the NE ridge from the highest lake in 60 Lakes Basin before Clarence King the next day. Fun class 2-3 on the ridge surpassed only by the summit ridge. Really liked this peak.
seano - Jul 19, 2011 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
From Charlotte LakeWith Tom and Laura. Mostly a sand-slog and talus-hop, but an exciting finish.
craig512 - Jun 27, 2011 2:02 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Gardiner Pass to South summitThis was the toughest hike I've ever done. It took four of us 19 hours from Roads End 6:30am to 1:30am. With the huge amount of water runoff and snow around the South slope we decided to hike up to Gardiner Pass and across the ridge to the South summit because nobody had crampons or waterproof boots. This route does give you excellent views north along the ridge. There was a HUGE avalanche this spring that took out about 300 yards of trees for about a mile or two on the south slope of Gardiner Pass, be careful if crossing this mess. Also, the summit register is missing, so if you do summit bring a pad and pen to leave :(
Desert Solitaire - Oct 2, 2009 11:41 am Date Climbed: Sep 24, 2009
More fun than Clarence King!Definitely more fun than Clarence King! Climbed in a day from camp as part of the Kings Spur traverse (CK, Cotter, Gardiner). Coming from Gardiner Lakes, I took the sweeping ridge that leads to the lower summit. It was fun class 2-3 scrambling the whole way, and the summit ridge was loooots of scrambling fun. Staying on the knife-edge the WHOLE time bumps up the difficulty to a short 5.5 move.
bechtt - Sep 27, 2008 12:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 26, 2008
Ascent SE Ridge, Descent E ChuteLong day hike out from Onion Valley. Easy ascent/traverse leads to the South Peak where the fun begins! Descended East Chute and climbed Mt Cotter before the long exit via Rae, Glen, and Kearsarge Passes. Pictures and trip report
Bob Burd - Aug 2, 2008 9:35 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2008
From Roads EndNot quite the slog I recalled now that I was only carrying a daypack. Much nicer! Trip Report
Matthew Holliman - Aug 21, 2007 2:33 am Date Climbed: Jun 16, 2007
Dayhike from Cedar GroveAscended the south slopes, then descended the east chute to head over to Cotter. Looped back via Sixty Lakes Basin and the Woods Creek trail--a very long, rather tiring day. The bushwhacking past Charlotte Dome pretty much sapped any drive I had to go and climb that thing, at least until I forget how bad the brush was...
The knife edge is a fun scramble, with nice exposure and perfect holds right where you want them. Some of the easiest 4th class I've climbed in the Sierra.
RSN473 - Jun 2, 2005 12:26 pm
Route Climbed: NE Chute to E ridge Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2004East ridge was climbing at it's best!
mtnfoto - Jan 21, 2004 11:03 am
Route Climbed: South Arete Date Climbed: Summer 1980Long day climb from Onion Valley. Climbed solo in a near whiteout.
Bob Burd - Aug 30, 2001 10:06 pm
Route Climbed: South Slope (ascent), East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: July 14, 2000mconnell and I were on a grand tour of the Gardiner Basin, climbing Mt. Gardiner on the second day. We carried all our crap up to nearly 13,000 ft at the south summit, traversed over to the north summit and back, then carried our gear down to Gardiner Lakes. I had a helluva headache at the high altitude, but the climbing on the knife edge was fantastic. And the climb from Charlotte Creek is an amazing slog. Worse than Mt. Clark's NW Arete approach! Trip report