"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."
--Ernest Hemingway
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ascensionist - Sep 27, 2010 12:26 pm - Hasn't voted
Lingerie - 5.11DA superb climb with an awkward balancy crux early on the route. Route decreases in difficulty as elevation is gained. Great finger-locks! As a point of reference, this climb reminded me somewhat of Trout Creek’s “Alchemy” but with an easier crux.
Ethan626 - Jul 24, 2011 12:56 am - Hasn't voted
JihadI think 3 sets of cams is a little much for this route. A good rack that will get you up this very comfortably would be 2 sets from Blue Alien to .75 Camalot then singles on up to...3 or 4?
Ethan626 - Sep 27, 2011 3:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Left Out - 5.9Climb the Thin - Hand crack to the left of the bolted line "Savage Heart"
This climb starts fingers with some face holds then begins to widen to thin hands/perfect hands. Face holds along the way provide some rests.
Cams from .75" - 2"
If you are uncomfortable at the grade/rock I would recommend bringing extra #1 Camalots.
TR off the "Savage Heart" anchors.