"So I was sitting in my cubicle today, and I realized, ever since I started working, every single day of my life has been worse than the day before it. So that means that every single day that you see me, that's on the worst day of my life."
--Peter Gibbons (Office Space)
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Brad Marshall - Apr 2, 2009 9:04 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: re: sad newsYou may be correct about Stephan turning around earlier and descending safely if he climbed solo. Unfortunately, we'll never know. Not many people know this but if you look closely at the photo I took of Stephan during our summit attempt and enlarge it to full size you'll see a climber just above and to the right of Stephan wearing a red jacket. The climber is Pierre Emeric Benteyn from France at the bottom of the glacier starting out on a solo attempt of the Polish Route. Unfortunately, Pierre disappeared that same day and has not been found.
Brad Marshall - Sep 17, 2009 10:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Sobering...Hi Alec:
Thank you for your kind words and, yes, the report was difficult to write. My goals were to tell everyone about how outgoing and friendly Stefan was and to describe the events and decisions we made along the way so readers could form their own opinions about what happened.
Regards,
Brad
Brad Marshall - Sep 17, 2009 10:39 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: good, not always happy, endings...Hi peladoboton:
I was blessed to have created a new friendship with Stefan and very sorry it didn't last longer. He was a very nice person and we shared a great time together. I'm also sorry to hear about the loss of your father. My condolences to you and your family.
Regards,
Brad
Luciano136 - Sep 16, 2009 11:48 am - Voted 10/10
Very unfortunate :(I wish he would've asked you to descend together with him :( . RIP Stefan.
Brad Marshall - Sep 17, 2009 10:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Very unfortunate :(Me too.
Brad
Redwic - Sep 16, 2009 3:39 pm - Voted 10/10
Heartwrenching Story!My emotions are definitely conflicted here. On one hand, I believe in the "go up as a team and down as a team" philosophy, and I am a little stunned you decided it was OK to leave an exhausted (or possibly sick) teammate on such a big mountain, especially after reading your comment: "I had been on the summit two years ago with my wife so it wasn’t that important to me." It seems like attempting the summit *together* the following day would have been the better choice. However, Stefan was an adult, was originally planning to go solo, and was certainly no mountaineering amateur. Plus, you have commented that another person was on the route at the same time (who was later discovered to have disappeared), so it is safe to assume you thought Stefan would be fairly safe until your return. He probably should have stayed put, waiting for you, rather than descending solo while tired. But there are so many possible "what ifs" that could be said, and I am in no position to pass judgement considering I was not there and cannot hear both sides of the story. Hindsight is 20/20, and I believe you had no ill intentions. Also, Stefan died doing something he absolutely loved. I can tell from your writing style both how much you thought of Stefan and how traumatic the experience was for you. In my opinion, it takes a lot of courage to talk about such a tragedy, especially so soon after it happened, and for that I applaud you. Thank you for sharing this story with everyone. My heart and thoughts go out to you, and Stefan's family and friends. He is missed, but memories of him live on.
Brad Marshall - Sep 17, 2009 10:59 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Heartwrenching Story!Hi Redwic:
Thank you for your kind words. I respect your conflicting emotions and I'm sure they're shared with many readers. Without attempting to influence your opinion I would like to clarify a few points regarding your comments above. First, while resting at 21,000' Stefan and I talked quite a bit and he was neither exhausted nor sick, assuming you were referring to AMS. He was very coherent, moving steadily at the same pace as I and decided to keep climbing in the area after we split up. Next, the other person I referred to was not on the same route as us. This climber attempted an ascent of the original Polish Route which is extremely icy in the lower section and considered by most as more dangerous than the Polish Direct route. As for Stefan staying put until I returned this is not an option on the Polish Direct route because all mountaineers descend via the False Polish Traverse back to high camp.
Regards,
Brad
Redwic - Sep 18, 2009 12:32 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Heartwrenching Story!I appreciate the added information, especially about the Polish Route and the other climber you saw. However, I posed my assertion about Stefan's condition because of your story's statement: "Stefan said he was too exhausted to continue and that he had decided to descend." But now you are saying that he was not exhausted? Those seem to be conflicting statements. So which is true? It does not seem to add up, that's all. Again, I'm not passing judgement, as I am/was just trying to envision the situation, and I really sympathize with all the emotions you must have been going through.
Brad Marshall - Sep 18, 2009 8:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Heartwrenching Story!I realize you're not passing judgement and, yes, Stefan "said" he was exhausted but to me he didn't look like it after we rested a few minutes. Many climbers push themselves to what they think is their limit only to find out they can go much further as I'm sure you have experienced. That's one of the unique aspects of climbing. Of the few people I've met that really had exhausted themselves they didn't talk about it. They simply plopped down in the snow with a glassy-eyed look on their face.
Buckaroo - Sep 18, 2009 3:17 pm - Hasn't voted
RIP Fellow ClimberGenerally on a face like this once it gets icy it's harder technically to downclimb than it is to climb up. As it gets steeper you have to face in going down, effectively climbing backwards. Everyone practices climbing up but how often do they train climbing down? Generally it only happens when you end up having to do it. Like at they gym or cragging, who climbs down?
I also wonder how sharp Stefan's axes and crampons were?, sometimes that can make a big difference. Also you see one alpine axe and one technical tool and you wonder if the alpine axe pick was good enough for steep ice.
Brad Marshall - Sep 23, 2009 9:53 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: RIP Fellow ClimberHi Buckaroo:
I don't know how sharp Stefan's crampons were during the climb. I can tell you that mountaineers on this climb typically take one ax and one tool and the tool is only for getting through the bottleneck if required.
Bergmonster - Sep 20, 2009 3:32 pm - Hasn't voted
memoriesthank you brad for this page. its written beautiful, sincerely and touching. your words are a big honor for stefan. no matter how sad this is, what you have experienced with him, will never get lost. where ever he may be now, affection and memories are immortal, and the mountain itself as well as all the hearts of those who loved him, will remain his new home forever!
all my best
sibylle
Brad Marshall - Sep 23, 2009 9:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: memoriesThank you for your kind words Sibylle.
Regards,
Brad
brandon - Sep 22, 2009 8:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Thoughts a year laterHi Brad, During my time on Aconcagua last year, I witnessed first hand the bad consequences of 'fly by night' guiding. It's clear that you enjoy the position of expedition organizer. Amatuers on a mountain always tend to project certain expectations onto 'guides.' I hope you reflect on this as you continue to enable climbers trips to Aconcagua.
In a situation that is not simple, one simple fact stands out. A relatively inexperienced climber, who asked you for a rope on ascent, died while descending the same terrain unroped and alone. An impromptu partnership was broken with fatal results. We have all made mistakes in the mountains, often with less consequence thankfully. I hope we all have learned our lessons.
Sorry for the harsh tone, but mistakes must be recognized and learned from.
Brad Marshall - Sep 23, 2009 10:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Thoughts a year laterHi Brandon:
I have no problem with harsh tones, or criticism of any kind for that matter, but I do take exception to a few of your comments.
First, can you tell me if your "'fly by night' guiding" comment was in reference to the trips I've organized to Aconcagua? If so, can you tell me what gives you that impression? Is it my post on SP that states that these climbs are for "team or solo climbers wishing to attempt the mountain on their own", my web site home page that states they are an "unguided extreme altitude expedition" or my information package that states "this expedition this is NOT a guided climb"?
Next, I'm not sure what you mean by "Amatuers...project certain expectations on to guides"? The climbers on my trips know I'm not a guide and prior to joining I clearly define what logistical services I provide and the fact that they have the freedom to climb in their own style and on their own schedule.
Lastly, can you provide more information regarding your reference to Stefan as being "relatively inexperienced"?
I respect your opinion Brandon and you are certainly entitled to it but not everyone regards what happened to Stefan as a mistake.
brandon - Sep 24, 2009 1:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Thoughts a year laterBrad, I was around last year when an unauthorized guide and clients got in big trouble with fatal results.
Your trips to Aconcagua certainly fall along a commercial continuim. You capitalize on your knowledge of the mountain and logistics involved.
This necessarily puts you in a position of authority in others minds whether you realize it or not. I used the term 'guide' very loosely to represent this idea.
Even if its not fair for others to have expectations, this position influences how folks there views your knowledge and skills.
Letting a partner descend alone, unroped, and exhausted, on terrain that he requested a rope on during ascent, that's a mistake.
I do believe your choice to organize trips to the area puts you in a position where you should be held to a high standard of behavior.
Brad Marshall - Sep 24, 2009 8:15 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Thoughts a year laterBrandon, to the best of my knowledge there are no authorized guides on Aconcagua so there can be no unauthorized guides. If I am mistaken on this point please let me know who the authorizing body is so I can stand corrected. Furthermore, I don't see how this is relavent to the accident and why you feel you have to belabour the point. I had no authority over Stefan and I don't think either of us are in a position to comment on how Stefan viewed the situation. It's obvious that you consider our decision at the time to be a mistake and I have acknowleged your opinion on that matter.
aaporik - Nov 2, 2009 7:06 am - Voted 9/10
Lossing a freindIt is always a hard topic to reflect, I appreciate your courage to share with us. It is one of the way to express your love with the friend you lost. My prayers for Stefan and stand with the family.
Brad Marshall - Nov 2, 2009 12:12 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Lossing a freindHi aaporik:
Thank you for your kind words.
mtncrazylesch - Jul 18, 2010 1:04 am - Hasn't voted
Thank you for sharingBrad,
I wanted to, like many, thank you for the courage and the respect you have shown toward Stefan to share this experience. We were moving to camp 2 at the time of the incident and could only pray for you and Stefan when we heard the news. May this find you well and continued prays for you and his family.