climbit - Jun 22, 2004 12:50 pm - Hasn't voted
Yeah...Especially if Martin "promises" a 5.6 pitch and then leads right around the slanting 5.8 crack and then pulls the rope tight and left around the 20-ft block above it!! :-)
SLLLAAAAAAAAAACKKKKKK!!!!!!
At least Martin WAS leading (and led it well) and not me. Thanks, buddy! It was an excellent entry to the climb.
Martin Cash - Jun 25, 2004 1:29 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Yeah...I agree. I would recommend this pitch over the ledge traverse above the chockstone described in Selected Climbs. It gives you an additional pitch of nice climbing on the route.
NYC007 - Jun 20, 2006 4:48 am - Hasn't voted
sw ribWE did this start, it looks a lot better that the jungle start.. or ledge traverse. it was fun though!
Martin Cash - Jun 20, 2006 5:00 am - Hasn't voted
Re: sw ribCool. Nice job Matt! Did ya try the variation?
NYC007 - Jun 21, 2006 9:56 pm - Hasn't voted
noI didnt notice it. WE did have a reall good look at the boving roof, didnt look all that bad what mid 10, good hands and feet.
Martin Cash - Jun 21, 2006 10:32 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: noYeah, it looks sweet! I heard it was 10b face to get to the undercling then the crack is sustained 5.9.
NYC007 - Jun 22, 2006 4:58 am - Hasn't voted
nicewe should have givin it a go, I have bad luck with guessing the grade, I thought mr clean on lower castle looked 5.8..no way
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