I also wanted to publish the Lauper route and started writing the text. Here it is, if you want you can take some information from it, otherwise just delete it!
In Grindelwald (or Interlaken) take the train to Alpiglen 1616 m. Take the hiking trail that goes east. When you reach the forest, take the direction to the Mittelegi hut. Follow the snow of past avalanches or keep left (east). At the end of the valleylike entrance at an altitude of ca. 2700 m choose a place for bivouac (Honysch). There are nice and safe niches on comfortable rock available, east of the main avalanche couloir that leads up to the north-east face. Water is nearby. 3-4 hours.
Next day continue the rock climbing still keeping slightly left (east) of the couloir until you see the possibility to cross it, loosing some height. Difficult rock climb to get to the icy flank. Keep to the right to avoid falling stones and chose a small tiny ridge that leads to the very steep ice flank. To escape the steepness, go right towards the north face. Follow on the verge between the two faces. Several times icy rocks force to do some heavy ice work in the flank. Finally, even this possibility comes to an end and you will have to attack the ice- and snow clad rock directly. After loosing a couple of hours on this bastion, you reach the last nice snow field (with tracks) that is also used by the Heckmair clan.
Very difficult and dangerous. Before doing this wall you should climb the Mittelegi ridge and study all the details of the flank. You should only undertake this climb when there is a European high pressure system from Spain to Russia. I cannot imagine that we would have escaped alive in bad weather (avalanches). It is probably impossible to have ideal conditions. We had excellent hard snow in the lower part (not much ice) and powder snow upstairs. The climbing time is hard to guess, we arrived on top late afternoon. The equipment today (2 axes, modern food) is better and less heavy, so you might be faster. We were very fast in the lower part, but needed much time afterwards.
I'm planning on climbing the Eiger in July 2003 via either the Lauper or Northeast Pillar Austrian route. I've read in Swindin's guide book that the Northeast Pillar route is safer as far as rock fall. Is there any information you can share on these routes? Specifically, how is the protection? Is it advisable to biviouc halfway up or push through in a long day? I'm planning on climbing it the third week in July. Is there an optimum period for the snow cover and weather? Have you done anything in the United States that is comparable to the difficulties of this route?
No Brian I've done nothing comparable to the difficulties of this route in the US or Europe. I've writed what I've found in my books but I'll try to find more information about Lauper and Austrian NE Pillar routes for you.
alpenkalb - Feb 26, 2002 10:20 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentHi Diego
I also wanted to publish the Lauper route and started writing the text. Here it is, if you want you can take some information from it, otherwise just delete it!
In Grindelwald (or Interlaken) take the train to Alpiglen 1616 m. Take the hiking trail that goes east. When you reach the forest, take the direction to the Mittelegi hut. Follow the snow of past avalanches or keep left (east). At the end of the valleylike entrance at an altitude of ca. 2700 m choose a place for bivouac (Honysch). There are nice and safe niches on comfortable rock available, east of the main avalanche couloir that leads up to the north-east face. Water is nearby. 3-4 hours.
Next day continue the rock climbing still keeping slightly left (east) of the couloir until you see the possibility to cross it, loosing some height. Difficult rock climb to get to the icy flank. Keep to the right to avoid falling stones and chose a small tiny ridge that leads to the very steep ice flank. To escape the steepness, go right towards the north face. Follow on the verge between the two faces. Several times icy rocks force to do some heavy ice work in the flank. Finally, even this possibility comes to an end and you will have to attack the ice- and snow clad rock directly. After loosing a couple of hours on this bastion, you reach the last nice snow field (with tracks) that is also used by the Heckmair clan.
Very difficult and dangerous. Before doing this wall you should climb the Mittelegi ridge and study all the details of the flank. You should only undertake this climb when there is a European high pressure system from Spain to Russia. I cannot imagine that we would have escaped alive in bad weather (avalanches). It is probably impossible to have ideal conditions. We had excellent hard snow in the lower part (not much ice) and powder snow upstairs. The climbing time is hard to guess, we arrived on top late afternoon. The equipment today (2 axes, modern food) is better and less heavy, so you might be faster. We were very fast in the lower part, but needed much time afterwards.
RIclimber - Jan 5, 2003 8:07 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI'm planning on climbing the Eiger in July 2003 via either the Lauper or Northeast Pillar Austrian route. I've read in Swindin's guide book that the Northeast Pillar route is safer as far as rock fall. Is there any information you can share on these routes? Specifically, how is the protection? Is it advisable to biviouc halfway up or push through in a long day? I'm planning on climbing it the third week in July. Is there an optimum period for the snow cover and weather? Have you done anything in the United States that is comparable to the difficulties of this route?
Thank you,
Brian Phillips
Diego Sahagún - Jan 9, 2003 6:45 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentNo Brian I've done nothing comparable to the difficulties of this route in the US or Europe. I've writed what I've found in my books but I'll try to find more information about Lauper and Austrian NE Pillar routes for you.