I did loads of research on this route before heading out and didn't find any two guidebooks that told me the same thing. To clarify the issue (or add to the confusion?) here are my detailed directions for the route. Those who want the joy of alpine routefinding can feel free to ignore it.
From the base of the Notch, the technical pitches start. Roach and several other guides send you part way up the couloir to a broad ledge, then back to the right to the arrette above Broadway. In late July, this was a huge mass of slushy snow and extremely nasty. Much more direct is to climb the arrette right off Broadway on the north edge of the Notch. It's about 30' of 5.4ish climbing to easier ground. Supposedly there is a two-bolt anchor here, but I never saw it. From there, stick hard to the left for the next two pitches. Pitch one ends in a deep chimney with a piton in the left wall. A 60 meter rope will easily reach from Broadway up to the head of the chimney. From the chimney, head right up a narrow slot and then cut back left from the broad bench above it. Continue up an easy ramp to an area of loose rock where the scrambling becomes 3rd class. It's non-technical from here to the final cliff-band.
The final cliffs are easily surmounted by the stair-step ledges. These are on the extreme right of the summit cliff and are easier than they look. Pull one mantle move and head right to an airy belay above the Diamond.
Hope this helps cut down the confusion and save time on an already long and committing route.
CharlesD - Aug 1, 2005 11:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI did loads of research on this route before heading out and didn't find any two guidebooks that told me the same thing. To clarify the issue (or add to the confusion?) here are my detailed directions for the route. Those who want the joy of alpine routefinding can feel free to ignore it.
From the base of the Notch, the technical pitches start. Roach and several other guides send you part way up the couloir to a broad ledge, then back to the right to the arrette above Broadway. In late July, this was a huge mass of slushy snow and extremely nasty. Much more direct is to climb the arrette right off Broadway on the north edge of the Notch. It's about 30' of 5.4ish climbing to easier ground. Supposedly there is a two-bolt anchor here, but I never saw it. From there, stick hard to the left for the next two pitches. Pitch one ends in a deep chimney with a piton in the left wall. A 60 meter rope will easily reach from Broadway up to the head of the chimney. From the chimney, head right up a narrow slot and then cut back left from the broad bench above it. Continue up an easy ramp to an area of loose rock where the scrambling becomes 3rd class. It's non-technical from here to the final cliff-band.
The final cliffs are easily surmounted by the stair-step ledges. These are on the extreme right of the summit cliff and are easier than they look. Pull one mantle move and head right to an airy belay above the Diamond.
Hope this helps cut down the confusion and save time on an already long and committing route.
sunnysummit - Nov 27, 2006 1:34 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Route CommentAwesome comments. I've incorporated your notes to the route description. Cheers.
smudge - Jun 17, 2006 2:00 am - Hasn't voted
right on...This needs to be added to the main page...this info is 100% correct.