Martin Cash - May 16, 2003 11:58 am - Hasn't voted
Aid QuestionNice picture Craig. I have a question or 2, please forgive the stupidity of it, since I know nothing about aid.
When you clean a piece on 2 ascenders, where do you place the ascenders while removing the RURP or whatever? Both ascenders between the piece and your tie in? Wouldn't you swing over as you knock out the piece in this instance. It seems pretty easy for vertical routes, but how about horizontal? Maybe swinging and the dynamic force that it implies is OK.
Martin
Craig Peer - May 16, 2003 12:24 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Aid QuestionJohn cleaned on jumars. He has to unclip one jumar and go around the next placement, then clean it. it is tricky and should be practiced prior to a real wall. You could self belay with jumars and keep tying figure 8's clipped to your locker while hanging on the aid placements themselves, but usually hanging on ascenders works as well. On really bad A4 traverses, leave a good placement and sling and use a rappel arrangement with a second rope so if something really " pops " you'll be caught in the middle between the two lines, rather than taking a potentially dangerous swing into something. Remember, on big walls there are only leaders and cleaners on jumars - the leader is too busy hauling to belay except in an emergency.
Comments
Post a Comment