Gravity Rock, 5.7-5.11a

Overview/Approach

Towers of Uncertainty was not included in Miramontes first two editions of his extensive guide for Joshua Tree National Park.  You are almost certain to have it to yourselves on most days (2018).  This area consists of a bunch of relatively small formations clustered close together not even a half mile off the dirt Geology Tour Road on the west side.  The ratio of sunny to shaded routes is approximately 1:1 making this a solid destination whether it is hot or cold.  The amount of grass on the desert floor in this area is kind of cool.  I expect it simply has seen less impact from humans over the years compared to the rest of the park.

Gravity Rock is the furthest west destination of these climbing formations. It only features a few routes (4) on a relatively small face.  The main attraction, Feel the Love, 5.11a***, is a highly touted sport route in the shade on the northwest face.   Two moderates, which receive ample sun all season long, are Slumdog, 5.7*, and I’ll Sleep When I am Dead, 5.7*.  Both are worth climbing and share the same start midway up the formation on a nice sunny ledge.  Caverna Magica, 5.10dR, as the name implies, is located in a shaded corridor down and right of the south face of the formation.  There is a fixed belay anchor on top of Gravity, but no rap anchor, an easy scramble down a gully to the east of the summit brings you back to the ledge below the two 5.7’s.

Park at the small pull out on the right side of Geology Tour road just shy of three miles and just before a wash.  Hike a trail westward that in short order enters the jumbled landscape of Towers of Uncertainty.  As you pass Two Bolt Rock on your left, continue straight west on a faint trail for the much larger formations ahead.  Skirt Demon on its left side and slip between Lava Dome and Demon Dome.  The upper face in the photo above will come into clear view.  Scramble up to the base of the obvious upper south facing wall.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Wall

Feel The Love- 65’-5.11a***/

Slumdog- 40’-5.7*/ The more unique climb of these two recommended 5.7 routes side by side.  The rock quality is not as good as the varnished crack on the right, but this mixed route through three pro bolts offers some fun stemming and thoughtful climbing and steepens near the end.  The start is shared by both routes, a fun roof pull at the grade.  Scramble down climbers right in a gully that brings you right back to the base.  Fixed belay on top, but not a rap in 2018.  Dow

I’ll Sleep When I’m Dead- 5.7*/ Same start as Slumdog, then move up and right into the obvious knobby and varnished crack system.  Climb it until you turn the arête right and finish on chossy face via two bolts.  Scramble down climbers right in a gully that brings you right back to the base.  Fixed belay on top, but not a rap in 2018.  Dow

Caverna Magica- 5.10dR/