Orizaba appears to be a different mountain thann it was when I climbed it twice, first in 1951 and five years later in 1956, both just after the rainy season in late October and early November. Both climbs were done ad hoc with little preparation except the purchase of some crude Mexican crampons and equally crude Mexican ice ax. Both times I started in the town of Orizaba and went by train uphill to Esperanza. Beyond there I proceeded on horseback up the south side of the volcano to a rock shelter known as La Cueva de la Muerte where my companions and I slept fitfully near an open fire. At predawn from an altitude of over fourteen thousand feet, we crept up through the ash to the snowline at fifteen thousand feet and cramponed ever so slowly to the rock that supports the summit in about six hours. In 1951 I stopped about one hundred feet short of the summit when clouds and snowfall made a summit view look impossible. I did not realize how close I had come to the top until five years later when on the Day of the Dead (November 1)I surmounted the final hundred feet and posed for pictures next to an impressive cross.
Recent pictures of the south side of the mountain reveal just how much of the mountain's ice cap has receded in fifty years. You may compare these recent pictures with those I took in the 1950s. Just like Kiliminjaro, the glacial character of this mountain will soon be history. This is indeed an inconvenient truth.
Congrats on reaching the summit! I was there 2 years ago, but we were pummeled by high winds and were forced to retreat. I hope to return one day... I enjoyed reading your report!
Hmmm... March 25th rang a bell, because I was one of those two californians that you mentioned, so that's pretty funny.
What happened: Despite being strong during the ascent, gradually I got detached from reality while coming down, so through self-diagnosis I thought I had HACE, or hypoxia at least. Despite being still totally rational in decision-making and fine in physical abilities, I had no idea why I was doing anything...and a few times I didn't recognize my friends right next to me, for example. Quite odd to say the least, and it was was obviously worrisome!
So I raced down, and after getting to camp immediately I just laid down on the ground in front of our tent (right next to where doumall also set up) and tried to sleep to help recovery...(Not sure if it helps or not).
Lesson from our trip: some peoples' body (definitely including me) needs more acclimitization than average for high elevation, and as always, those who observe similar symptoms developing in themselves, obviously get down... It was lucky that I felt fine until descending the labyrinth on the way back down.
For our ascent just the night before, luckily there was no bullet ice to worry about. We left all the technical gear at the base of the glacier, and never missed it.
Anyways, just saying hello. I remember you two quite well as you were conversing with our group, and we were talking later on the way home, being impressed that you just popped on up without a climb right beforehand.
COOL!!! Glad to hear from you. I remember you very well too. Way to get it despite the issues you had and thanks for the beta. We sleep day to day a little higher than you in Colorado which probably helps quite a bit.
I once got some really strong AMS while descending from a 14er. It was really strange, trail wrapping around me like a tunnel, down seeming like up. Wierd it didnt happen to either of us until the way down. Cheers!
nice report man. I was there once but we didn't get too far past 17,000 ft because of problems with altitude. Your report brings back a lot and makes me want to head back there sometime soon. cheers!
Nyle Walton - Apr 27, 2007 10:14 am - Hasn't voted
Climate change in fifty yearsOrizaba appears to be a different mountain thann it was when I climbed it twice, first in 1951 and five years later in 1956, both just after the rainy season in late October and early November. Both climbs were done ad hoc with little preparation except the purchase of some crude Mexican crampons and equally crude Mexican ice ax. Both times I started in the town of Orizaba and went by train uphill to Esperanza. Beyond there I proceeded on horseback up the south side of the volcano to a rock shelter known as La Cueva de la Muerte where my companions and I slept fitfully near an open fire. At predawn from an altitude of over fourteen thousand feet, we crept up through the ash to the snowline at fifteen thousand feet and cramponed ever so slowly to the rock that supports the summit in about six hours. In 1951 I stopped about one hundred feet short of the summit when clouds and snowfall made a summit view look impossible. I did not realize how close I had come to the top until five years later when on the Day of the Dead (November 1)I surmounted the final hundred feet and posed for pictures next to an impressive cross.
Recent pictures of the south side of the mountain reveal just how much of the mountain's ice cap has receded in fifty years. You may compare these recent pictures with those I took in the 1950s. Just like Kiliminjaro, the glacial character of this mountain will soon be history. This is indeed an inconvenient truth.
doumall - May 2, 2007 7:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Climate change in fifty yearsSounds like quite a trip. Thanks for your story Nyle.
Alpinist - Apr 27, 2007 5:59 pm - Voted 10/10
Nice TRCongrats on reaching the summit! I was there 2 years ago, but we were pummeled by high winds and were forced to retreat. I hope to return one day... I enjoyed reading your report!
doumall - May 2, 2007 7:27 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Nice TRI wish you luck, thanks!
pjc30943 - May 2, 2007 1:02 am - Hasn't voted
Neat write-up.Nice report, and congrats on making it up!
Hmmm... March 25th rang a bell, because I was one of those two californians that you mentioned, so that's pretty funny.
What happened: Despite being strong during the ascent, gradually I got detached from reality while coming down, so through self-diagnosis I thought I had HACE, or hypoxia at least. Despite being still totally rational in decision-making and fine in physical abilities, I had no idea why I was doing anything...and a few times I didn't recognize my friends right next to me, for example. Quite odd to say the least, and it was was obviously worrisome!
So I raced down, and after getting to camp immediately I just laid down on the ground in front of our tent (right next to where doumall also set up) and tried to sleep to help recovery...(Not sure if it helps or not).
Lesson from our trip: some peoples' body (definitely including me) needs more acclimitization than average for high elevation, and as always, those who observe similar symptoms developing in themselves, obviously get down... It was lucky that I felt fine until descending the labyrinth on the way back down.
For our ascent just the night before, luckily there was no bullet ice to worry about. We left all the technical gear at the base of the glacier, and never missed it.
Anyways, just saying hello. I remember you two quite well as you were conversing with our group, and we were talking later on the way home, being impressed that you just popped on up without a climb right beforehand.
Perhaps we'll meet again!
doumall - May 2, 2007 7:35 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Neat write-up.COOL!!! Glad to hear from you. I remember you very well too. Way to get it despite the issues you had and thanks for the beta. We sleep day to day a little higher than you in Colorado which probably helps quite a bit.
I once got some really strong AMS while descending from a 14er. It was really strange, trail wrapping around me like a tunnel, down seeming like up. Wierd it didnt happen to either of us until the way down. Cheers!
mattnoland - Dec 9, 2007 7:30 pm - Hasn't voted
thanksnice report man. I was there once but we didn't get too far past 17,000 ft because of problems with altitude. Your report brings back a lot and makes me want to head back there sometime soon. cheers!