Dow Williams - Jul 8, 2015 7:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2015
Hobbit Book
Good one to solo on sight in my opinion. If I knew it trended more 5.6 then 5.7 I would have saved it for a solo ascent. Similar to doing Matthes Crest or Cathedral solo. The crux face pitch is on large 5.6 features the whole way to the corner where you are secure in the crack again. We simul climbed it in two long pitches after climbing OZ below.
justing - Aug 9, 2010 1:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010
Linkup with Eurotrash
The ST guide is right. The third pitch is the business.
haishan - Oct 12, 2009 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2009
Classic
Linked with Euro Trash, this is a classic long moderate route. Pitch 3 golden plates is amazing, but Pitch 4 is the real money with a physical undercling past a roof, and more steep laybacks all the way to the summit. Very cold, first sunshine of the day encountered when pulling up on the summit.
rhyang - Jul 5, 2009 10:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009
Spectacular !
Climbed with my friend K. Chaltikian - he led the first and third (runout) pitches, I led the second and last 5.7 pitches.
Fun climbing and spectacular finish. The view from the top of Mariuolumne is excellent.
We didn't do the usual approach - in the morning we started early and climbed Eurotrash, a 4-pitch 5.8 bolted route (some gear on last pitch) with an optional 5.11a mantle (had to aid on that one :) to attain the approach ledge.
Dow Williams - Jul 8, 2015 7:41 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2015
Hobbit BookGood one to solo on sight in my opinion. If I knew it trended more 5.6 then 5.7 I would have saved it for a solo ascent. Similar to doing Matthes Crest or Cathedral solo. The crux face pitch is on large 5.6 features the whole way to the corner where you are secure in the crack again. We simul climbed it in two long pitches after climbing OZ below.
justing - Aug 9, 2010 1:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 8, 2010
Linkup with EurotrashThe ST guide is right. The third pitch is the business.
haishan - Oct 12, 2009 6:22 pm Date Climbed: Oct 10, 2009
ClassicLinked with Euro Trash, this is a classic long moderate route. Pitch 3 golden plates is amazing, but Pitch 4 is the real money with a physical undercling past a roof, and more steep laybacks all the way to the summit. Very cold, first sunshine of the day encountered when pulling up on the summit.
rhyang - Jul 5, 2009 10:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2009
Spectacular !Climbed with my friend K. Chaltikian - he led the first and third (runout) pitches, I led the second and last 5.7 pitches.
Fun climbing and spectacular finish. The view from the top of Mariuolumne is excellent.
We didn't do the usual approach - in the morning we started early and climbed Eurotrash, a 4-pitch 5.8 bolted route (some gear on last pitch) with an optional 5.11a mantle (had to aid on that one :) to attain the approach ledge.
Sam Page - Apr 23, 2008 9:34 pm
Exposed approachBrian Ketron and I climbed this in summer 1994. I vividly remember one very exposed move on the approach.