SW Buttress - got rope stuck and had to cut it a pitch or two below the summit (off route). Rapped route on short rope. West Face ice climb. Nearly got avalanched off but ran away just in time.
Norman - Oct 4, 2010 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
West Ridge, gully two
Pleasant Fall day!!! We found Gully Two a little more challenging than expected, but summit we did. Great Mountain.
rhyang - Aug 31, 2006 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2006
I led pitch 1, then we simulclimbed a bit, followed by Doug leading some, then more simulclimbing, then I led a pitch, and then more simul'ing. Doug led the rest of the technical stuff. Fun finish. Started at about 6am from SR20, atop summit by 11:30, back to cars by 2:30 or so. Something like 7-9 rappels to descend, with a little downclimbing on easier terrain. Each rap was spaced almost perfectly for a single 50m rope (good, because that's all we brought !)
Weather was a little cloudy and cool, but the clouds parted as we got to the summit and Doug pointed out neighboring peaks. Great introduction to the North Cascades !
jtostenr - Aug 7, 2006 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Route Climbed: South Buttress
Fun climb with great views of the Liberty Group and Wine Spires. We never did see the "Tarzan Jump". Other than getting a rope stuck on one of the raps, everything went well.
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005
Very impressive looking mountain from the south. Jim and I approached it quickly and found oursleves struggling in the gully. The next two pitches over ledges and loose junk made me wonder how the rest was, but things got better with each pitch higher: a very sweet dihedral pitch, an unprotected step across a notch and the final offwidth crack and there we were on the airy summit. We rappeled the entire route including the gully and were down at the car at 6pm. What a great day, if it wasn't for the 2am arrival at PDX...
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005
Sunny & cloudless day in the North Cascades ... lucky.
8 or so rappels without a single stuck rope ... luckier.
Back to Marblemount in time for dinner ... priceless!
Great views from the route and the summit. Somehow we missed the first 5.7 pitch out of the notch, and instead soloed the 5.2 gully to the left. Next time, I'm putting on my harness before heading up a gully!
Lots of loose and sandy rock, but the fourth pitch had some great crack climbing, and the summit pitch was fun.
Derek Franzen - Aug 21, 2004 11:47 am Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1982
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: April25 and others
With T Rashko, E Sandbo, D Reed and other SAC'ers. This peak is an excellent early season climb; later in the season (after all the snow has melted off the route) it's mostly a scramble. Watch out for rain loosened rock-fall, lower on the route the hazard can be significant. Find a rappel anchor in the gully just before the final summit. Two rappels down the W Face route bring you to ledges which can be covered in snow and which in early season we glissaded down into the upper basin.
rtgomez90 - Jul 30, 2019 2:13 pm Date Climbed: Jul 11, 2019
s buttressTitle
Jake Robinson - Jul 9, 2017 11:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017
SE ButtressFun climbing complicated by a somewhat sketchy approach. Ended up being a 14 hour day with somewhere around 18 rappels to get back down to the basin.
Mooner - Aug 20, 2016 3:44 pm
Up I Go2016-08-04 Via SE Buttress with Sam
gimpilator - Jul 6, 2014 4:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2014
South Buttress7 pitches and 14 rappels. Led by Matt Below. We climbed The Needles the next day.
nickmech - May 1, 2014 1:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
West RidgeNice hike up valley and good rock on exposed short ridge to summit.
ExcitableBoy - Dec 27, 2010 11:31 am
Two attemptsSW Buttress - got rope stuck and had to cut it a pitch or two below the summit (off route). Rapped route on short rope. West Face ice climb. Nearly got avalanched off but ran away just in time.
Norman - Oct 4, 2010 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010
West Ridge, gully twoPleasant Fall day!!! We found Gully Two a little more challenging than expected, but summit we did. Great Mountain.
rhyang - Aug 31, 2006 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2006
South ButtressClimbed with Doug, as noted below.
I led pitch 1, then we simulclimbed a bit, followed by Doug leading some, then more simulclimbing, then I led a pitch, and then more simul'ing. Doug led the rest of the technical stuff. Fun finish. Started at about 6am from SR20, atop summit by 11:30, back to cars by 2:30 or so. Something like 7-9 rappels to descend, with a little downclimbing on easier terrain. Each rap was spaced almost perfectly for a single 50m rope (good, because that's all we brought !)
Weather was a little cloudy and cool, but the clouds parted as we got to the summit and Doug pointed out neighboring peaks. Great introduction to the North Cascades !
jtostenr - Aug 7, 2006 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006
Route Climbed: South ButtressFun climb with great views of the Liberty Group and Wine Spires. We never did see the "Tarzan Jump". Other than getting a rope stuck on one of the raps, everything went well.
setrent - Dec 23, 2005 12:19 am
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 2002A worthwhile climb on mostly solid rock. I would recommend an early start or a weekday for this route due to its recent popularity.
hkutuk - Jul 27, 2005 1:53 am
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005Very impressive looking mountain from the south. Jim and I approached it quickly and found oursleves struggling in the gully. The next two pitches over ledges and loose junk made me wonder how the rest was, but things got better with each pitch higher: a very sweet dihedral pitch, an unprotected step across a notch and the final offwidth crack and there we were on the airy summit. We rappeled the entire route including the gully and were down at the car at 6pm. What a great day, if it wasn't for the 2am arrival at PDX...
jtschanz - Jul 19, 2005 12:23 pm
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005Sunny & cloudless day in the North Cascades ... lucky.
8 or so rappels without a single stuck rope ... luckier.
Back to Marblemount in time for dinner ... priceless!
Great views from the route and the summit. Somehow we missed the first 5.7 pitch out of the notch, and instead soloed the 5.2 gully to the left. Next time, I'm putting on my harness before heading up a gully!
Lots of loose and sandy rock, but the fourth pitch had some great crack climbing, and the summit pitch was fun.
Derek Franzen - Aug 21, 2004 11:47 am Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1982
Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: April25 and othersWith T Rashko, E Sandbo, D Reed and other SAC'ers. This peak is an excellent early season climb; later in the season (after all the snow has melted off the route) it's mostly a scramble. Watch out for rain loosened rock-fall, lower on the route the hazard can be significant. Find a rappel anchor in the gully just before the final summit. Two rappels down the W Face route bring you to ledges which can be covered in snow and which in early season we glissaded down into the upper basin.
Moni - Nov 15, 2003 8:35 am
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 21, 1982With Fred
linxweiler - Oct 23, 2003 3:36 pm
Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 2003Great day for climbing. The approach was quick, but steep. Beware of the gulleys, which send rocks down with great regularity.
Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 5:01 pm
Route Climbed: W Ridge Date Climbed: 21 Aug 1982Climbed with Monica Spicker.